B6244 Lisette for Butterick Cascade Front Coat

B6244 Lisette for Butterick

 Last Wednesday (!!!!) DH and I took a day off together and were out running errands - kids both in their daytime gigs meant we were f.r.e.e.   We were at the west end of town, so very close to the local Fabricland and my gallant knight encouraged me to swing by - and I dragged him in for his opinion on a "sante fe" knit so I could make an on-style cardigan.   When we walked in we found boiled wool, blanket fabric and coating on *sale* !   Stashed away in my pile of patterns I wanted to try was Butterick 6244 - so a project was born when he helped me pick out a fabric with a decent wrong side.

The pattern B6244 from Lisette is straight forward - just a single worrisome pivot at each neck/shoulder joint.  I shortened the sleeves to fit and the length by 3 inches.  I graded up much less than I used to have to (my hips are down over two inches since September) and was within the pattern measurements finally!  (I also referred to the sewalong)

I changed the hemming method to face the hem (at the same 5/8") with a ribbing I had in my stash. Using a little stretch on the ribbing only (maybe 10%?)  - I stitched it at 5/8 then flipped it to the hem side and zig-zagged the edge.  On the intersecting hems, I started a new strip with the end simply folded over and continue on my merry way.  The hem is to the outside on the neckline and front, and to the inside on the bottom edge (per the pattern).

My style sense was born in the 80's and this fabric felt so Ralph Lauren, so I added shoulder pads without a second thought.  I bound the arm hole with a double fold bias tape and used a twill tape along the shoulder and neckline seam.  

B6244 Lisette for Butterick

B6244 Lisette for Butterick

In the end, when I look in the mirror I am not 100% that this is the front opening for me - but it sure is easy to wear and will definitely be my go-to until the snow flies (and by which time I hope to fit nicely into my parka!)

Stash Buster #21 (of 48) - B6163 Looking for a TNTee

After the ***Success*** of my B6169 Moto Jacket (sadly waiting for me to return to Ottawa to retrieve it!  - secretly I suspect someone wanted to keep it)  I thought I would extend another opportunity to Lisette to prove her patterns can do curvy.

B6183 is my intended:

Here are the muslin shots  of a 16D:

Not enough ease, so I am going up a size, swayback, increasing back hip and taking a nip at the back neckline.

Here are the muslin shots of 18D with the adjustments:

YAY!  I love it - I am wearing it to test the remainder of the day and then I will decide if there are any more changes I need to do.

Butterick Lisette Moto Jacket B6169 - a very happy project

I feel like I have been working on the moto jacket all month, but in reality I only cut it out last week.  Unlike my usual routine of buy for stash and work from stash, I fully planned this jacket:

1. Ordered the pattern from PatternReview.com Feb 19
2. Committed to the Sewalong  March 6
3. Stumbled on the fabric and received assistance with the zipper at Giroux Sewing Centre while travelling  March 14
4. Traced the Pattern March 18
5. Made Muslins March 20-22
6. Sewalong started March 23
7. Finished Jacket took pictures March 30-31
8. Blogged April 2

I am thrilled with the result,  and looking forward to wearing it.

Liesl had a few "extra credit" steps in her sewalong and I followed these, although my hem interfacing was too light to be effective, and I snipped the upper back underlining to release the fabric at one shoulder.  I found the issue too late to figure out what went wrong - I am not going to unbag the lining to investigate.

I think the nicest hidden feature was a crazy back facing process:

  the sewalong had a really intimidating image of gathering an pins (I dislike pinning my sewing)

But it turned out gorgeous!

Overall - I give this project a 10/10 for satisfaction.

Update:  here are some more photos as requested: