A (not so) young Jedi sewer makes a break through.

This week I was adding buttons to a (what was kind of a muslin but has become a real piece) cardigan and since I wasn't being particularly anal I decided to trust my machine's automatic buttonhole foot. Usually I still mark and use my foot pedal, but for some crazy second I forgot what machine I was at and I pushed the start button (I have never used this button) instead of the needle down button. The machine went into crazy action at top speed (faster than my foot pedal will make it go)... perfect button hole. I put aside the sample scrap and grabbed the garment - and perfect button hole: 6 times. huh!

I guess I need to learn to trust in the Force.

A kindred soul's stash

Earth Day /week inspires a lot of rehoming, repurposing, and reduce, reuse, recycling and today was a thrifting day in my town: schools and organizations have resale events where they collect a small admittance at the door and various "vendors" tag their goods for sale in gymnasiums and halls.

We visited a sale this morning searching for some summer clothes for DS the younger.  Afterwards we popped into VV to dig around.  I (per usual) loaded up the cart with children's books (to keep the boy occupied while I peruse) and moved over to the sewing and fabric section and I delightedly collected a few bags of notions.

 

I gaga'd at the little sneak peeks that i could discern through the jumble of stacked cards and celophane, shelled over my $6 and change and happily returned the children's book (save 1 DS got to pick).  Once at home I settled down to sort through the 4 bags.  The first was a fantastic collection of buttons.  Gorgeous jewels still on their cards.  Most were purchased for 15 cents from Woolworth, Zellers, and Eaton's. 

I am taking such joy on this bag! There was a little card of orange buttons that attracted me at first, it was why I bought the bag... but, so many beautiful buttons!  Like candies.

Bag #2 had me at a peek of blue and silver rick rack.  There were so many pretties peeking over the stacks of cards in the bag.  There was also a new treasure:  Shell Braid.  Everything is sparkly with gold and silver fibers, and so may pastels!

Bag #3 was a motherload of snaps and hooks and eyes, needles and bias tape.  This one fascinated me in its history.

So many of the little metal bits were made in Canada and England.  Today they come from China and India usually, and I have been trained to have an aversion to cheaply made bits (often this is why I thrift - to re purpose and rehome bits and pieces that already exist, and lessen my footprint that iota.)

Bag #4 sits on my kitchen table waiting for my inspection.   I spotted bra hook panels and a snap setter and that was the motivation to spend another $1.39.  

I feel like I know the former owner of all these things, in fact, I feel like she is an old friend.  I know, if she was alive as the items were loaded up, that there was regret at the projects not made and the loss of those beautiful cards of buttons.  I hope that she somehow knows that her stash has landed in my stash.  I will do my best to create the final home for these notions and finishings and her passion will be infused with mine.

Do you wonder what will happen to your stash when you no longer hold it?

Endeavours! Shorts and "that curve"

I am really excited to be sewing up some Endeavours!  I have looked at the pattern online so many times in the last year, and passed because I was unsure of the whole package  (I was stung sharply by a BAAAAAD pdf (previously blogged, you'll find it if you are looking for the pattern review) )- I wanted to see reviews and they were few, and the designer was offline for a while.

Can I hear a what!what!? I love it when a yoke comes together! #sewingcake #endeavourtrousers

A photo posted by Heather Dawson (@rainydayperson) on Apr 10, 2016 at 11:42am PDT

Then recently there was a thread of chat about tough to fit bodies and pants and a Fb friend recommended the pattern.  Phew! - then! I was (just the NEXT DAY) shopping in a destination fabric shop a few hours from home :  Fabrications and saw this wall:  (YES, I giggled)

Clearly it was worth the little side trip to @fabricationsott I bought my paper @sewingcake Endeavour Trousers pattern. I nearly died when I saw the pattern collection. A gorgeous sampling of @artgalleryfabrics and Nani Iro, Birch, Kauffman. ... such a fantastic break in my boy filled day!

A photo posted by Heather Dawson (@rainydayperson) on Apr 5, 2016 at 5:45pm PDT

The pattern IS innovative.  I like the variation for hip curve - bum-cup size as described by the designer.  It's drafted well (all the notches match, too!) and my first kick at the can (get it!?) was a near success (I am so! close).  The instructions are great - if you have experience with reading a pattern, it's easy to get the jive.  It's similar to a Style Arc instruction set - and there are plenty of handy tips right on the pattern pieces - be prepared to trace you pattern.

I was excited to see that the PR Pants Contest is next month, so I am hoping that I will get a TNT out of these.  The first pair were dreamy on my bum, and a little tight in the front (I am an atypical shape) So I am going up a size - I suspect I may be 1 size in the front and another in the back....
I highly recommend not skipping this pattern - it's a treat.

Dandelion Bronte Top

My last mishmash post of knit sewing tips and tricks was a gathering of a month of psych - ing myself up for actually using one of my precious fabrics.  I bought an Art Gallery Knit : Tiny Dancer at my local fabric supplier, Stitch by Stitch and I was terrified I might create a wadder if I didn't prep, practice, pray.

So, I prepped and practiced all month.  I made several knit projects over the month and finally the last week of the month I cut into a similar fabric as a muslin.  When that one worked out fine I sucked in my breath, and prayed while I finally cut into the AG knit.

 I made a Jennifer Lauren Vintage Bronte Top 

I have made a few before, but with the changes to my bust since my mastectomy I wasn't sure how it would fit, and to my great pleasure,  it fit really well.

 The knit's stretch and body worked really well for this pattern, and the 4way stretch was a nice surprise.   The whole project went well, and I am a definite convert to the thicker knit.

The 3/8 seam allowance worked nicely with my 6,0 needle 

The bobbin thread perfectly encases the seam allowance and the cover stitch effect is great.

 I graded up 2 sizes below the waistline.

The other alteration was to add a sleeve band instead of a hem; I have marked the pattern to add an inch for future hems, I like the sleeve just a tad longer than drafted. 

I liked the look of the three buttons to finish the shirt off.

All in all, I love this shirt and it has now become a true TNT. I'm already thinking about my next one, and I have already splurged on another Art Gallery knit. 

Stashbusting Sewalong - the Knits Month Posts!

Place Holder for KNITS MONTH POSTS

My final project will post next Monday - I have muslined it up, but I want to make it my first garment in the PR endless combinations contest ( http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestRules.pl?ContestID=254 ) so I have to wait to cut until the 1st.

March 1, 2016

It's Knits Month!
According to the interweb we are all intimidated by knits - but TBH I have always been fearless (to occasional great success and frequent thrift store donation). This month I am going to bust some knits out of my stash - if you choose to join the theme, come a long with me!

To start - what patterns do you have in your stash? I started a board - https://www.pinterest.com/hkdawson/knit-busting-patterns/

March 3, 2016
Did the Pinterest Board give you any ideas? (https://www.pinterest.com/hkdawson/knit-busting-patterns/)
If you are new to knits, and not ready to invest, here are a few free patterns that I recommended:

Deer and Doe - Plantain Tee
http://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/…/20-plantain-t-shirt-pattern.h…
(a great starter T shirt Pattern, works well for curvy bodies - and many hack ideas are available on The Internet - try searching images for "plantain pattern deer and doe" Pinterest is a great source for ideas on this pattern too)

Peek A Boo Patterns - Janey Jump Around Dress
http://www.peekaboopatternshop.com/janey-jump-around-dress/
(great girl's dress: I have made 6 or 8 of these dresses - it's a perfect little ditty - I can whip one up in less than 2 hours from dryer to hanger)

Oliver & S - Sunny Day Shorts
http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/sunny-day-shorts/
(Boys' Shorts)

And if you just want to dig around - there are a number of excellent free patterns through Deby's site So Sew Easy
http://so-sew-easy.com/free-sewing-patterns/

I know that several of our group have made the Lindy Petal Skirt from Itch to Stitch - I haven't, but I am confident in the validity of the reviews I have seen.
http://itch-to-stitch.com/new-pattern-release-lindy-petal-…/

There are quite a few other free patterns - I will go to the Pinterest Board and comment free on the ones I see there (or if you are pinning and know it is a free pattern, please mark it as free)

Next Up: Identifying the Knits in your stash - and sorting them out.

March 8, 2016There are so many types of knits fabrics in the big wide stash that choosing which is the proper knit to use in a project can be as difficult as sorting your stash.

So, we start with the basic knit identification tips:
- Where woven fabrics have a hash tag layout #, knits have a ₩ look. I'll attach a zoom in photo to show you. So, get out your magnifying glass.

- At the end of the photo set is a picture with instructions with measuring for %stretch - often on a commercial pattern package you will see a "fabric must stretch from here to here" chart. You should become accustomed to measuring stretch both cross grain and straight grain (parallel and perpendicular to the selvage).

- fabric content - hot tip - take a picture of the end of the bolt when you buy fabric - my stash predates digital photos, so that's mostly out for me, but there are lots of instructions on the Internet for testing for content (I don't have a great record for caring what content is in fabric).

-shrink test your fabric - knit patterns typically don't have a lot (or use negative) ease, so knowing the recovery, stretch, shrinkage of a fabric is important - wash a sample a few times (cut a square with specific dimensions - 10x10 cms is my usual - and then measure it when you are done drying it - then you can calculate the shrinkage) you can also check colour fastness and pilling at the same time.

- next we look at recovery and drape


March 11, 2016

After stretch %, Recovery and Drape are what makes a difference on selecting appropriate stash knits for a project.

Recovery - synonym: Elasticity. If you stretch it, does it return to the original shape and size? Imagine a range of BodySuit to Sleeveless Undershirt. A great test is the Poke Test - take a known size piece of fabric in both hands and drive your thumbs into the fabric like you are trying to get into a bag of chocolate. Scrunch it, twist it, poke it and then drop it like it's hot. How does it look? What size is it now? If it goes back to the original shape and size - it's likely Body Suit recovery level. If it looks like a topographic map - that's more like undershirt recovery level.

You have to use your imagination with judging the recovery of fabric for projects - where does the fabric lie on your body? How much ease is in the pattern, will the fabric slide over a joint (elbow, knee) or will you be stretching the fabric all day? Sleeveless undershirts need only a touch of recovery - when you bend forward it should recover. Body Suits will end up looking like a fat suit if you don't use fabric with recovery. Remember, Knit patterns might go so far as having NEGATIVE ease - this is why boyfriends don't like girlfriends wearing their favorite shirts - the girls can stretch out the chest and you end up giving your boyfriend a baggy chest.

Drape - How does the fabric fall? Is it gravity defying? Picture a dance skirt - poor drape makes a tutu, great drape makes a dance skirt - both skirts are gathered, but the drape effect changes the outcome. If you need the fabric to skim the body, then increased drape is important - this isn't unique to knits by any means, but it can be overlooked. Keep the tutu in mind - are you going to gather the knit? - what looks great as a sweatshirt (because it has more ease and hangs away from the body) might look silly as a skirt.

next up - needles, interfacing, and thread - Oh My!

March 15, 2016
I hope some of you have started attacking your knits plans - I whipped up a gorgeous StyleArc Emily and was led down the garden path by M7127 (you can look it up on pattern review - yeesh!) - I am trying to find my TNT (Tried and True) top pattern to blow out some of my pretty knits. - What have you completed so far?
So - Needles - they are what separate the tryers from the doers in sewing and can 'make' or 'break' a project (oh! so clever!)
There's a fantastic info summary on http://www.coatsindustrial.com/…/apparel-…/all-about-needles
We are focused on two needle types for our knits (size 80 needles will handle a typical knit, delicate fine knits need a smaller number, heavy dense knits need a bigger number):

Jersey/Ballpoint needles have a medium tip designed to slip between the knit fibers (will not break the fibres).

Stretch needles also have a medium ballpoint tip, but these have a special eye and scarf (thread slot) that are designed for especially stretchy fabrics and elastic (in these fabrics the threads will stretch rather than separate and you can end up with skipped stitches) Swimwear - and often slinky - needs this type of needle.

Thread! argue at will - I like a good thread - Coats and I have parted ways as the mercerized wrap seems to hate my tensioner discs in my machine.
You can use all cotton, mercerized, polyester - all of these work just fine. If your thread breaks while you stitch or when you try to stretch your seam (but you aren't skipping stitches), change your thread. You should be using a stretch stitch (a zigzag, double stitch, or lightning stitch).

Interfacing. It matters.
Yes, you will use interfacing in many knit projects. There is knit interfacing - use it if you pattern suggests it - you will produce a longer lasting, better lying, resilient garment. If you skip it, you will regret it.

Extra Interfacing and Stabilizer ideas? Patterns often skip the extras, but interfacing a zipper will improve your garment result, as will stabilizing your hemlines - we recently discussed Pellon and other knit stabilizer tape (in a comment string) I will attach a couple photos for your reference.
Here's the link to the conversation:
https://www.facebook.com/…/stashbusting20…/924643654298694/…

Finally, clear elastic (skinny like a ribbon) - it is great to add to horizontal seams that need to recover their shape - especially shoulder seams. Pull out some RTW and check to see if they have them in your garments - I have scavenged some out of garments where they used it for hanger strings. You stitch right through it and forget it.

Next up - pinning, cutting, basting.  (more below the comments)

Melissa Evans Thanks Heather Dawson. I just read a blog post on the difference between jersey and stretch needles, and she basically couldn't find a good answer after her research and testing. Your brief description is far and away more enlightening. I need to up my knit game when it comes to hems. I have a few things I need to try.

Like · Reply · 1 · 15 March at 15:12

Heather Dawson Epiphany!!! I was just sewing my elastic stabilizer into my shoulder seam and the thread broke. I was using a ball point needle. I switched it out for a stretch needle and no thread breaks!

Like · Reply · 1 · 15 March at 22:14

Heather Dawson I KNEW what needed changing!

Like · Reply · 1 · 15 March at 22:15

Write a reply...

Janina von Weissenberg Ballpoint for knits yes but I wonder if I've even seen stretch needles..

Like · Reply · 15 March at 15:48

Heather Dawson

Like · Reply · 15 March at 18:55

Heather Dawson

Like · Reply · 15 March at 18:56

Heather Dawson This is the badly drafted shoulder of m7127

Like · Reply · 15 March at 19:57 · Edited

Heather Dawson Clear Elastic stabilizer in the shoulder seam

Like · Reply · 15 March at 22:17

Heather Dawson I use wooly nylon in the looper and regular thread in the needles on my serger.

March 17, 2016
Ack! We are half-way through the month! Have you tackled at least one of your stashed knits? I am in pursuit of a go-to t shirt pattern and not there yet. My latest project went off the rails, but I am converting into a knit shell to at least not waste the yardage. I have a gorgeous Art Gallery Knit (http://tinyurl.com/hze8dof) that is meant to be a top by the 31st - I have to get crackin'! I am not wasting the fabric on an untried pattern, so I have at least two more tops to make this month!

Pinning / Cutting

I have long been a non-pinner (militant, maybe?) but my newer machine has all sorts of gizmos around the foot and I am finding that my knuckles fared better when I started adding a pin or two - so I now have an opinion on pins:I like some of them, sometimes.

You should test your pins on knits - I know that sounds OCD, but it's true - knits don't like having holes poked in them, so you should make sure your pins are knit friendly. I don't think you absolutely have to go out and invest in fine ball point pins, but next time you have a 50% off coupon or someone asks you what you want for a gift - try out some fine glass head pins. They are dreamy. Test to make sure that your pins don't leave permanent holes in your fabric and that your pins don't cut/tear the fibres of your knits.

As with all fabrics, the gorgeous movement and personality of the drapier fabrics can make them a terrible thing to cut. I use rotary blades to cut my knits and many of you prefer scissors - and both work just fine, but a dull blade will result in a creeping knit.

By creeping I mean:

a) when cutting two layers the top layer and the bottom layer will misalign

b) the fabric will not remain relaxed and will stretch as you cut.

When you cut knits there are a few things that can help (note that I am not saying you have to do these - but precision cutting leads to precision garments - it's worth the time if the garment is worth the time):

a) pinning carefully is one thing and for fitted knits you probably need to pin on the precision seams - princess seams especially - take care to make sure the fabric stays in place around the vertical seams especially - bust point, pocket openings, etc

b) weights - lots and lots of weights (I made some cute bean bags a few years ago to use as pattern weights - I'll attach a photo)

c) cut cut break - meaning let your fabric relax between cutting movements - cut until you start to see a shift (you will notice it at the pins) then release the fabric from your blade to let it relax again

d) cut out 1 layer at a time (yuck.) the plushier the fabric the greater the shift - so for those lovely, luxe springy knits - suck it up and do twice the work - it will make a more precise garment.

E) use a SHARP BLADE

Part of Cutting is marking the guide points and notches. I like to use thread for marking on the garment - and I notch with a tiny snip on less delicate knits - on delicate knits I mark the notches with a chalk roller (it has a wheel with bumps so the knit doesn't creep). Very likely you will need to add banding to your knits, so take a second and mark the centre front, back and midway of the sleeve hem. Chalk paper works as well, but I find that the markings can be hard to remove from knits.

Basting
I ALWAYS BASTE (see creeping knits above)
On my garments that are worth the time - I baste and then serge. If I don't care as much - I might go straight to the serger on a straight seam. If there is any fitting, easing, gathering, or if the seam is curved in any way - baste it first, check it, and then sew.

Next up: seams and hems, bands and bindings.



Tiny Dancer Midnight in Knit, K-47202, Knits, Product Catalog, Art Gallery Fabrics

March 22, 2015:
I had planned to chat about seams, bands and bindings, but the Internet distracted me and I have a few neat things to share first:

TSHIRTS!
On the weekend Gillian posted a great post on her Tshirt adventures:
https://craftingarainbow.wordpress.com/…/19/types-of-t-shi…/

and followed up with another post:
https://craftingarainbow.wordpress.com/…/types-of-t-shirts…/

I have been hot in pursuit of a new Tried and True T and have been searching my stash - I have the Bronte, Plaintain, and Seamwork Rio to sew before the end of the month to meet my target for the month: a go-to T - but Gillian has me thinking that maybe I might have 3 go-to tees..... (perfect: a stash of go-tos for a stasher)

Here is a blog post on some hotly pursued independent patterns:
http://www.basteandgather.com/…/top-10-t-shirt-patterns-ind…



Plantain: http://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/.../20-plantain-t-shirt...
Renfrew: http://www.sewaholicpatterns.com/renfrew-top/
Lark: http://shop.grainlinestudio.com/products/lark
Bronte: https://www.etsy.com/.../bronte-knit-top-ladies-pdf...
Metro: http://oliverands.com/product/OLV-LC007WM-D.html

Next Up: seams, bands and bindings

March 29, 2015:
March 29 already! Have you made a dent in your knit stash at all?

My current pursuit is knit training pants for my son and nephew and I am really using my knits skills - doing research for these posts have really upped my game - I am so happy with my improvement in March (ad all my test garments have used up a heck of a lot of my scraps and stash!

In all of the following treatments it is important that you test your stitches:

• check for wavy seamlines, 
• watch for tunneling 
• test the stretch (remember our stretch test using the ruler? make sure you have at least enough stretch to make it to zero ease from the negative ease) 

Twin Needles are a nice stretch finish - Linda has a really nice intro to twin needle sewing: http://www.nightowlcorner.com/2014/08/sew-with-double-needle/

Seams
Knits stretch, so the seam should stretch as much as your garment will be asked. There are some guidelines for ensuring your seam CAN stretch, and the main principal is ensuring there is enough thread to BE stretched.

Many machines have a range of stretch stitches (and often they are indicated by a different paint colour or marked on your machine).

The phrase "The shortest distance between two points is a straight line" is our knits seam antithesis: we want to increase the distance - using a zigzag, back and forth (double or triple stitch), lightning, or serged stitch. Many people DO use a straight stitch on knits, but it is important that you consider whether you are going to ask the seam to stretch - if you are - make sure you reinforce the seam with a second row of stitching and consider using a thread with stretch, like a polyester.

Hems and Bands
Hems, similarly need to stretch. On fabrics that like to tunnel, I add a strip of knit seam tape to the stitching line to support the threads' tension and have no issues with wobbly hemlines. I usually add the seam tape to the wrong side of the fabric close to the raw edge and use the edge of the tape as the fold guide - leaving the right side of the garment with no tape. This also prevents the rolling of the fabric and gives a tidy finish.

Bands are stretchy - bands are especially useful when you want the opening to be snug - usually you cut a band slightly smaller (20%, often) than the opening and stretch the band (and do not stretch the opening) as you sew. Necklines use bands too: stretching the band just right, and not the opening will result in a neckline that lies flat - less stretch will create a standup collar. There are a million guides to sewing necklines - this one is a good example: http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/04/how-to-sew-a-round-neckline/

Bindings
Wrapping the edge of fabric is called binding and is another neckline and hemline treatment. Typically you will attach a piece of banding to the raw edge (with raw edges together) and then press the band towards the raw edge, then from the wrong side, press the banding to encase the raw edge and finally top stitch. Here's a good instruction set with lots of pictures: https://indiesew.com/blog/how-to-bind-a-knit-neckline









So! this is the end of Knits Month! I will copy all the posts over to http://rainydayparent.blogspot.com/2016/03/stashbusting-sewalong-knits-month-posts.html

Tackling your first garment project (sewing for your darlings)

My longtime friend is tackling some dresses for her DDs and needs a little guide to her pattern readying - I thought recording it here might help her have a reference to return to - and, it might work for others too!

Either on your pattern envelope, on the website where you downloaded the pattern, or sometimes inside with the instructions you will find a size chart that correlates body measurements with the pattern's sizing.  Note that these might not (in fact, rarely) lineup with RTW sizing.  I have captured an image of sizing from a Simplicity pattern close to what my friend is starting with - you should definitely use the sizing chart for your particular pattern.

HOT TIP:  it would be a really great idea if you had the following measurements BEFORE you buy your pattern - that way you make sure you buy the correct pattern size group.

Chart: http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/measurement-chart

Pattern Sample: http://www.simplicity.com

I used an image of the words above to eliminate those creepy crawlers from zoning in on some keywords....  I hope you can see the words.  The key trick is the waist marker: tie a piece of elastic or a ribbon snugly  around the waist and get your darling to wiggle around until it settles - this will be the narrowest spot - the waist.  Leave the string in place, and measure.

Once you have made the measurements, use a pencil, or on a copy, circle the measurements that you have recorded.  Note - your babies will change measurements constantly (my twelve year old grew 6 inches this school year) so try not to permanently mark the pattern: that will complicate future recording of markings.

This is a little ahead of the game, but: if you are able, trace your pattern rather than just cutting it out of the printed paper. This will allow you to return to the pattern again later when your child's measurements change, or when the tracing has become tattered from use. Before you get started, take a minute to lightly iron/press your pattern paper. Tracing is easily done using some sort of transparent paper, and I find it easiest if the table top I am using is light coloured. If you can't trace, start with a highlighter to mark your pattern size, take note of the method for blending a pattern size below.

It will make tracing your pattern very easy if your child's measurements all fall into one size, but that's somewhat unusual.  Does your darling's measurement look like this on the chart? Let's start with the red circles:

Children are often little cylinders or pears - and this is NORMAL.  The size chart is a nicely averaged series of measurements (and the model the company uses changes from region to region and over time) -  always measure and never take offence - aren't we all unique little snowflakes?

Now, take a look at the blue line above - The garment measurements indicate the ease in the pattern is 2 inches at the chest - there's room to breathe, and a little room to grow. Over time you will develop a sense of how much ease you need for different pattern/fabric/fashions but my experience has been that I can usually start with what the Big 4 suggest (McCall's/Vogue/Butterick/Simplicity... Kwik Sew and Burda get included in there - these pattern companies have a standard that (for each one) is consistent, and usually tried). I always check PatternReview.com to see if there is any head's up from another sewer/sewist - an opinion that the sizing is generous might have me make a trial garment before I cut into my precious fabric.

So my example snowflake is clearly about to grow - the belly is lovely and full - knowing that my darling is going to need a little extra room in the belly is going to help me greatly.

I am going to blend my pattern to allow me to make room for the belly and booty.  

The chest is a 7 in this pattern - and then the darling needs a jump of room for the belly to a 12 (just to be sure I will go back and remeasure.... it's easy to make an error, and that's a big jump but this snowflake IS just 2 and 1/2 inches bigger in the belly than the pattern's model.)

So what's blending?  It means that when you lay out your pattern pieces you are going to take note of where the waistline indicator is, and you will start by tracing the size seven line at the chest and above, but as you approach the waist you will gradually shift you pen to tracing the 12 - the grade should be consistent on each piece.

Now - where is the waistline?  You took a measurement above for the back-neck to waist - and the pattern indicates (by my 4th red circle) that my darling snowflake's waist falls at the size 8 waistline marker.  The pattern should show a mark at the waistline.

On the sample Simplicity gored skirt pattern above, you may have 8 pieces to make the skirt:

1.  1 piece for the 4 side panels (cut 4 of the same piece, 2 at a time with fabric right sides together),
2.  1 piece for the front (cut 1 on the fold), and,
3.  1 piece for the back (cut 2 at once, right sides together).  

To ensure consistency, on all three pattern pieces,  use a ruler, starting at least 3cm from the top edge mark a line to start the blending on the size 7 line and then 4cm above the waistline (see above) mark a line to complete the blending then below the waistline you will continue following the size 12 .  If this were a fitted skirt (or pants) you would blend back a size at the hips, but this skirt is loose and won't suffer from the volume at the bottom, and you might lose the desired shape. I find it easiest to draw a straight line from one mark to the other and then if necessary go back and imitate the curve of the pattern's cutting line if there is a curve.

On this dress, the cap sleeve is snug at the arm - take a minute to measure your darling's bicep - the pattern might have this measurement indicated - usually on the pattern piece itself (the bust, waist, hip and bicep are usually indicated with a circle with a cross through it).  If the pattern is too small you may want to  expand the sleeve a little - this can be done without altering the sleeve head (the part of the sleeve that attaches at the shoulder).This is a good set of instructions for altering a sleeve from In House Patterns.

The bust, bicep, waist and hip might be marked on the pattern with this symbol, usually accompanied by the garment's measurement at this location.

When you trace, carefully copy the location of the pattern markings, taking care to mark the notches especially. On the sample Simplicity pattern there should be notches to match the skirt to the bodice.  Always take a minute when you are cutting to notch the fabric accordingly, and to add notches at centre front, centre back, and at the foldlines of pieces cut on the fold (often centre front/back).

There we have a start on getting ready to cut the fabric - make sure you wash your fabrics ahead of time, and have your cutting tools ready. I'll make another entry in this blog for cutting tips and tricks, later.