Not Just Another Wardrobe Plan Post - Learning to Dress My Truth

Lately there is a blogosphere undercurrent of Kondo-adhering, organized people planning a new Fall Capsule Wardrobe.  Sometimes I wish I was one of those people, but I am more of an

I-want-to-do-it-all-I-love-everything 

kind of person.  In fact, striving for a minimalist life is soul crushing for me!
Really though I have realized that I need to institute some guidelines for my enthusiasm.  I need to approach my apparel sewing differently than I have been.

Why do I need a guiding path? Because of my personality - everything is an option for me.  Why is this a problem? Try watching Yes Man - everything is fun a and games until you stop and realize that you have lost YOU in the Yes.  I need some guidelines to keep my projects in check or my enthusiasm will become my frenemy.  Trust me - this is a real issue in all aspects of my life - I have been married to the wrong guy, jumped into a 2nd marriage that couldn't work geographically, and stayed way too long in a relationship that was just t.o.x.i.c. All because I am a positive person who enthusiastically says yes!  spoiler alert: I am happily in the healthiest relationship of my life, now, finally, at 43.

Just a quick FYI - There are no affiliate links in this blog post.  I don't have a moral standing on this issue - I typically have 100 hits on a blog post - that's a lot of people reading my diary, but metrics don't justify the work of cultivating affiliate relationships.

In the May issue of Seamwork there was an article ""Design a Personal Color Palette" that recommended making a framework for your wardrobe.  This chart from Elizabeth Farr was featured in the Seamwork Article:

SYMPTOM	SOLUTION
Your clothes don’t always make you feel vibrant.	When wearing your own colors, you naturally will feel better. It’s hard not to feel blah in a deep, dark sweater when candied pastels light up your face.
You feel disconnected and trapped by fashion trends.	With a strong sense of your own colors, you won’t have to wait for fashion seasons to bring your favorite colors to you.
Your clothes don’t seem to go well together.	You will increase the versatility of your wardrobe. When all your creations are in your color range, you can combine your clothes in ways that you never could before. Orphan garments will be a thing of the past.
You find yourself buying fabric because it’s "close enough" to what you really want.	A personal palette will boost your creativity. Working within the limits of a color palette, you will look for novel solutions when you cannot find the right color in a given fabric. For example, when you can’t find the right shade of denim, you might reach for bleach, dye, or choose a vivid printed twill.

Colour wasn't everything I needed, though - I need a sewing buddy to help me know if something looks "right" on me too - but sewing buddies are scarcer than hen's teeth in my environment.  But, I have online friends - and we all know that the online community is utterly supportive; there's no room for trolling in our community - and when an outsider does troll, things like #cakewithcashmerette happen. So when I asked, I was not getting a critique - just support (I thank you all for your support, it's a wonderful world to live in, except - I need to be told the bitter truth sometimes!)

I read  Stacy London 's book The Truth about Style in hopes that would help, and it did, but it was more to help me garner enthusiasm for my project - not what style would work for me specifically.  The book is awesome, it really helps you understand where you can go wrong and how to encourage your desire to be stylish.  I realized while reading the book that each woman's situation spoke to me in a way  - perhaps the issues I am facing are cultural?  In the end the book reminded me of the Girl Guide Law: especially from the Promise, "I Promise to be True to Myself".  (It's funny how the Law always brings me back to my home ground.)

  What do I desire?  Here's a little brainstorming of keywords (and then I went back and added a "what does this mean? - What do I want?"):

• Ease - I want my look to seem effortless, outfits are fine, but I want people to think I took care, without freaking out about what to wear)
• Commanding - I want people to notice me and pay attention
• Approachable - I want people to want to talk to me
• Pretty - I want to look attractive in a romantic lacy way
• Quality - Made - I want the quality of my clothes speak to my skills as a sewist
• Synchronous - I want my outfits to be coordinated not just as an ensemble, but to work with my situation and my personality
• Youthful - I want my clothes to be fun and full of energy, and let me be free to do youthful things while I am wearing them
• Up-Market - I want my clothes to fit like they are tailored, and have expensive-looking features
• Chic - I want to look like I pay attention to fashion
• Forward - I want to look like I am edgy (like I pay attention to fashion)

Am I sure I have a problem?  Sure - I don't feel like many of my clothes fulfill my brainstormed list above.

That said - I HAVE made some great decisions with my clothes that HAVE made me feel great when I wear them, but until I looked at my brainstorming list above I hadn't realized why.

 

So - I had been adrift and making fashion without a filter - just getting lucky from time to time.

I decided I needed help, and thought I would search out a system that would give me cheat sheets.  I began to pin, and pin, and search and pin - but I wasn't really getting anywhere definite, I just had suspicions.  Finally I broke down and looked at pay-for services - and there are a few out there - I looked at several and then started researching Carol Tuttle's books and looking at anything I could find on YouTube.  Everything was quite accessible.

You might have seen the Dress Your Truth pop-ups in your ad bars at one point.
Dressing Your Truth Program (this is a Link to a free profiling course).

The language and spirit can be very touchy feely and new age from time to time, but it is an interesting perspective on personal style - AND at the end of the course I had a guide for where I should be heading with my sewing choices: Design Lines, Texture, Fabrication, Pattern, and Colour.  I fit nicely into Type 1 - my keywords are Animated, Youthful and Fresh.

I feel like the program really resonated with me, and I have found a significant difference when I look at sewing projects - the Fall Releases from the Big 4 have been a different experience for me, my Pinning has changed, and when I went to a fabric store this week I was far more discerning than I have been in the past.

Here's an example of a recent design decision that I caught on camera - I had the Texture, Fabrication, Pattern, and Colour right, The colour is great, and the random polka-dots and movement in the contrast  sleeves are perfect for my Type 1 energy.  BUT the Design Lines were wrong.

This Neckline cuts me off.  It is too high, and too abrupt.  the texture of the sleeves is good, but overwhelmed by the expanse of my chest.  

Relaxing the curve on the neckline was an excellent choice, and the addition of the contrast fabric to the centre-front opens up the face and brightens up the whole experience.

I am amazed at the difference - In the past I would have gone with the pattern and ended up with a frumpy sweatshirt, but I KNEW what I needed to do: add a point of a star, or the base of a heart to the neckline to honour my Type 1 look.  (What???! - I learned it in the DYTruth course!)

And finally - I also understood that my neckband choice mattered - using the coral would cut off the accent and negate the effect - so I cut out the contrast fabric as the neck band:

I am so pleased with the final effect.  It's just a raglan sweater - but it's not frumpy, it suits me!

So next - to plan a Fall Wardobe  LOL - actually, next I need to do a little Kondo-ing and get rid of the clothes that are bringing me down - only now I will have Guidelines and now I will understand why the clothes just don't work for me.

In Progress: a Stash Buster from 1980! Retro outfit for the 4/5T Chickadee

How cute is THIS?

I have this adorable little shirt pattern in my stash, and a quilting cotton donated to my stash by a friend that has cute little hearts.

My machine is away on a spa month for a new needle housing (yes, I am in distress!  I hope to have it back by mid-August) and I am using my torture device known as Brother from a Thrift Store Mother which hammers stitches like they are hairy spiders on a kitchen counter. So - I am working on this project instead of my DS(the Elder)'s back to school front zip Hoodie (M6614 or Burda 7734).  

Rachel at House of Pinheiro has a super-fun Sewing Photo Hop on Instagram this month: #sewphotohop

Today is Day 7 (I just posted my first entry for Day 6): this project made the cut for Day 7

Day 7: Sew up close. My current project, a retro button up top 1980 @simplicity_creative_group s9566 in a period appropriate country printed cotton for my 3 year old niece. Giant buttonholes for her fat fingers. #winsewphotohop #sewphotohop @fabricgodmother @houseofpinheiro

A photo posted by Heather Dawson (@rainydayperson) on Aug 7, 2015 at 7:08am PDT

So I will finish her little shirt today or tomorrow - next I want to make a dress or skirt to coordinate.  I am considering an Oliver+S Popover Sundress or I'll self draft a little jumper.  It will definitely have a patchwork heart on it to match up with the quilting cotton in the shirt. 

Finished! Fit and Flare B6053 - Stash Buster #32 and 35 (of 48)

Finally!  B6053 is satisfyingly and tantalizingly done!

Cute little dress - the fit was good, I am not thrilled with the zipper finishing, but I was quite comfortable in the 29C (+100% humidity) wedding weather.

Instead of the prescribed hook and eye I had a sweet salvaged silver button with a crystal and I added an elastic loop.  I bought this zipper from a clearance bin at Fabricland last year, and it was too stiff for this fabric, too long, originally a separating zipper, and hence why I am not thrilled with the final look at the bottom - but it rocks this dress!

The faced hem is really nice - I used navy satin.

I used top-stitching thread - and I changed the order that I top-stitched: I sewed entire components together (the whole bodice) before I top-stitched - so I did all the vertical lines - and then attached the sleeves and midriff and top-stitched all of the horizontal seams - and then proceeded similarly with the skirt. - It was too much thread changing to do it when the pattern instructed (after every seam).

I wrote to McCall's and commented on the pattern - They replied and acknowledged the cutting confusion for the front piece (cut 2, not on the fold) - but I didn't feel like they were looking for constructive follow-up (really, this pattern is printed and probably mostly sold) so I will offer my advice to you (because you are either reading this because you love me and will skip the next bit - or because you are looking into making this dress.)

• Trim your seam allowances on the neckline an sleeve.  
• Stay-stitch and Clip your curved seams (in the bodice).
• Plan your zipper before you cut your good fabric.  
• Unstated in the instructions, the skirt part of the zipper has a 5/8" seam allowance ALL ALONG THE CUTAWAY - I didn't like the zipper design on this pattern.
• The sleeves: practice this (if you make a muslin - it's worth the practice) it's tricky for an inexperienced sewist - I saved my top-stitching for the sleeve edge and underarm until the garment was complete.
• Test to see if your machine/ fabric can handle a twin/triple needle for this project's top-stitching.  The twin worked well for me. 

So - I might make this again - I think it would be a great denim dress, and I may reconsider the skirt - there's a funny drape at the back of the butt - I am not sure if it's the fabric or the weird zipper or the pattern shape for the drafted zipper.

All in all - I love the bodice now that it is fitted - I may draft a straight Aline for a denim dress.

M7093 Godets on a Woven Raglan T! (Stash Buster 33 and 34 - of 48)

After two weeks on B6053 I needed a quick top - something pretty and easy (and colourful after all that heathered grey crepe.   Baby and Hubby were sick, so I put them to bed and went to the basement.  I really enjoyed whipping up my first M7093 :

But, it was too snug at the hips (bring on the food scale!).

So I pulled out another intended combo of fabrics with no assigned pattern from my stash:

I graded up sizes at the hips AND... I LOVE IT

(I see from these pictures though, this fabric calls for a seamless bra)
The grading worked well, and the addition of the stretch lace is cosmetic only (but I thought I might need it when I was working on it).
I studied and studied the fabric to try to decide which side was the right side, and decided that I liked [what I presume is] the wrong side best.  The side front godet is a stretch lace, and the main fabric is a wool/silk/viscose (gerorgette? - the label only had fibre content) that I picked up in the secret apparel fabric stash at my local quilting shop.  (The owner of the shop is a secret apparel sewist and brings in minimum orders from time to time from a quality fabric supplier - and I tend to buy the ends of her bolts when they go on reduction)

I think if I ever sew with a similar fabric I will stay stitch the heck out of the pieces - luckily I was able to call out my inner pressinatrix (oh Ann, I have such admiration!) and steam the edges back into shape.  I pressed EVERY SINGLE STEP for this garment - I think that's why my shoulder and godet looks so pretty.

I read recently in a variety of pinning places that you should never stitch over an unpressed seam - and I have taken it to heart.  

So - is this a georgette?

(wow - that's a big picture, but I'd like to know what to call this fabric)  

I used French seams (the fabric is pretty well behaved, but I wasn't sure it wouldn't shred with wear), but left the shoulder dart open, and I did a light overlock stitch on the hems before turning them and stitching them.

DREAMY fabric - and perfect for 30C days - it will have to be put away for the other three seasons, though, I feel nearly naked.

I will definitely sew this pattern over and over - though I may change the front neckline to less boat and more slight scoop.

Fit and Flare B6053 - or, My new suit of armor

Remember this?

Well - I am finally happy with the fit of the muslin:
here's where I started:
All Skirt Panels - Extend the cutting line to lengthen by 3"
Hem Panels - Increase each piece to accommodate the bigger circle
Used the D Cup Pieces

Here are some photos of the needed adjustments:

convenient-to-take darts at the raglan sleeve seam

significant spread at the midriff

 

Darts at the front neckline, some shaping for my bust line, which raises the arm scythe by 1.5 cm.

So - back to the tracing table!  I had to redraw the neckline on the should pieces, and slash and spread the front midriff - essentially making a curved band.  I also redrew the front skirt panel to meet the expanded midriff.

So stitched up and experimenting with the pattern's instructions for binding and testing the various topstitching possibilities - and this is what I ended up with:

I's pretty boobalicious, but the fit is good - maybe a tad overfitted.

The back is not overfitted. I made a small swayback adjustment, and my prominent rear usual issue should be fine:  I think the weight of the skirt will sort out the midriff.

Maybe I should have done a shoulder adjustment... I haven't needed one before, but I see the curve in my shoulder/neck.... I think I might need to go chat with my chiropractor.  It's carrying DS (the Younger) around I think.

The binding treatment on the neckline and upper sleeve is awkward - I am not sure that I will stick to the pattern directions when I finally get to the seafoam gabardine

So now I am on to the first wearable version - I am making it out of a lovely heathered grey crepe.  I am not sure of the fibre content but it feels like butter.

 

Here are some tests of the twin needle - I am going to do navy topstitching and use a pretty navy zipper with crystals on the teeth

Here's hoping!

I have been "short"-listed for the Shorts on the Line Challenge/Contest!

I am so pleased to have been selected as one of the 21! This was a fun challenge that fit in with my plans!
Please go click on the heart above my bum: http://imaginegnats.com/shorts-on-the-line-2015-viewers-choice-voting/

In which she endeavors to make a Fit and Flare Dress for a Curvy Body.... B6053

Hello my imaginary friends!
I have been hard at the math trying to make B6053 fit my curves!

It's a wonderful challenge - and no tears (the eye kind) yet.
OH! I want to thank Angela Kijauskas for pointing out that there was an error in the pattern for the skirt and saving me time!  (It ISN"T to be cut on the fold)

Muslin #1 was a straight 18D - hoping against ration that it would simply be perfect for me. I altered the pattern to make the skirt longer with following adjustments:
All Skirt Panels - Extend the cutting line to lengthen by 3"
Hem Panels - Increase each piece to accommodate the bigger circle
Used the D Cup Pieces

So - Muslin #2 is traced with the following adjustments:
Front Shoulder Piece - Redraw the neckline curve to accommodate the adjustment to the front bodice
Back Shoulder Piece - NO CHANGE (!!!)  [I doubt this is correct - Muslin #2 will find this]
Front Bodice - Take a dart at the neckline - at the shoulder piece seamline,
Side Bodice Front  - take a pinch-dart in the pattern to reduce the arm scythe (results in raising the opening by 7/8" at the underarm)
Back Bodice - Take a dart at the neckline - at the shoulder piece seamline, 3/8" Swayback Adjustment
Side Bodice Back - take a pinch-dart in the pattern to reduce the arm scythe
Midriff Front - Complete Re-Draft to allow for prominent tummy, increase of 1.75" on each side (!!!)  I used a Sandra Betzina method (slash and spread several times to "spread" the "spread over several adjustments).  This is essentially a curved waistband now....  [it's an experiment - maybe this will become my planned cummerbund belt]
Midriff Back - NO CHANGE (!!!)
Front Center Panel of Skirt - Slash and Spread the piece to increase the waistline by 1.75"

Pictures of this Muslin to follow - Muslin #1 wasn't decent (it was more a peplum than a dress - and I had to slash like crazy - I looked like an 80's Horror Movie-star Victim)