V8620 The Stars Aligned Wool Jacket (and a partial Stash Buster)

Have you ever completed a project and wanted to shout from the rooftops?
I am so happy with my jacket!

Look at my grin!

This jacket - V8620 - a Marcy Tilton design - is Out of Print, but I was very lucky to stumble upon a stash of patterns in the back corner of a home dec store a few weeks ago, and bought a mass of Betzina and Tilton patterns for my own stash.  (That's STAR #1 - Let's keep track!)

Here's the line drawing:

Note the Empire Line and the dropped back.  This is a dreamy shape for my figure!

STAR #2 is my recent and desperate need for a new Winter jacket - something I can throw on and feel stylish in.  I have a few nice leather jackets, but they aren't warm enough for Winter's approach and the ski jackets in my stash are not sexy.  My good, down Winter coat needs a new zipper (and I hate working on repairing down coats).

STAR #3 / 4 / 5?

FABRIC

Last Winter I uncovered a gem in the Value Village Thrift Store - a bizarre, but wonderful felted stripe that was perfect for my BFF's colouring and a cardigan project.  I hoarded the chucks and scraps for someday - I loved the fabric so much.  I believe I paid $8 and change for the yardage.

Then, this Fall I won a yard and a half of a wool coating from Elliott Berman Textiles

And then just a few weeks ago, I was back in my local Value Village and found a sweet chunk of  quilted lining:

Finally, STAR #5!  Pattern Review's Colour Blocking Contest came up in the calendar!

I'm not sure these are stars, but lets call it the universe - there are a few sew-a-longs on the go for coats - the McCall's PeaCoatAlong has just finished, and I followed the posts for that, and there's another on-going for the Clare Coat.  I also followed Beth's coat study on SunnyGalStudio Blog.

I took a Craftsy course: Terry McClintock's Essential Guide to Working With Wool, and read Brooks Anne Camper's Seamwork Post: A Guide to Underlining,

I debated and finally chose to add the step of hand basting the lining to each piece, as I decided to treat it as an underlining for the too soft hand of the coating compared to the unusual felted fabric.  Other than that I followed Marcy Tilton's great directions for the pattern  (but I hand stitched instead of using the stitch in the ditch method proposed and ended up with a wonderful gem!

The final on my model

Front from the inside

Back from the inside

Here's a closeup of the guts.

Can you see the pocket here?

Look at the beautiful cuff!

And - DH,  my honey,  helped by snapping a shot of the jacket in action at the grocery store:

Love Love Love the Jacket!

Mrs Claus - A-Line from scratch, M7254 Jacket, and Cypress Cape (Sewaholic)

 Remember the Opportunity?  OMG  I had so much fun!
Nov 21 has come and gone, and I revived my dress-up last Friday for a photobooth The costume worked out really well (that's all explained below).  The wig was a beast (too tight for my head), but the whole rest of the Mrs Claus at the nighttime parade experience was great.

The costume is designed for wearing outside in wintry weather, so you really don't want to be lazing about the house in costume. As pick-up time approached - my lovely friend and family assisted with bobby pins, white hair spray, safety pins and a kilt pin - we moved so fast we didn't manage to get decent readying pictures before we flew off into the parade grounds.  Santa is a fantastic date, and surprising mountain of a man - I felt like a little pixie next to him!  The float is  gorgeous, and the sleigh is made of (presumably aircraft) metal.  I was picked up at 3pm and got home at 11 - and it was a hoot!

The wig tops off the costume, my hair (as much as I already have a haircut suitable for Mrs Claus) is just too mousy for that silver foxette.  It's a Marie Antoinette wig and I pinned up a few of the dangly locks, and added a holly sprig to my bun.

I rescued a pair of glasses from the Tickle Trunk and found my Santa pin from the hospital auxiliary.  My tall winter boots did nicely, too.  Under it all I wore some awesome Columbia Omni Heat base layer (long underwear of sorts) featuring a candy stripe (I was being funny) and my Omni Heat white gloves.



But what of the incredible costume project?

The Skirt
 I used my A-Line skirt block.  Because the fabric was an upholstery grade velveteen/chenille I added an inch to the side seams, and an inch and a half to the center back.  I put in a heavier zipper than one would normally use for a skirt, but it needed to carry the weight of the skirt.  I used my curved waistband and made that sucker extra wide.  I faced the waistband in a solid canvas.  I wasn't risking anything with a lost securement, and after debating all the possibilities I decided to use a kilt pin for the fastener.

The weight of the skirt was totally reasonable for a costume piece, and actually cut the windchill very well.  The fabric held up and there were no wrinkles.

I had contemplated adding a hem band in fur, but this was unnecessary and with the potential of snow would have only reduced the longevity of the skirt.  If I ever get wear at the hem, I will edge in fur.



The Cardigan-Jacket

The main warmth layer for my upper body - the Cardigan jacket was made out of a fabric labelled Reptile-Fur on the Halloween clearance table.  In the photo of the fabric you can see the embossed texture on the fur - it IS reminiscent of crocodile or alligator.

It was a beast to cut this fabric - SUCH a mess.  I have a central vac and I really made use of it when I was working on this project.  I still have white fibers showing up on everything I sew.

The pattern for the cardigan is M7254 View C

The fabric has some stretch, but I interfaced the collar as per the directions to maintain the height to the roll of the collar.  I bought some red toggles for the jacket from Prym  - but the toggle straps separated from the tab - I restitched one, but decided not to rely on them.  I backed it all up with a safety pin (horrors!)

The cardigan was easy to make, and I love the process - I have used the Julia Cardigan until this project - I think I will shift to this pattern for future easy pieces.

The fur collar worked quite well for the costume,

 The Cape
The Cypress Cape is a doozy to prepare, but a joy to sew.
 Sewaholic Cypres Cape in red PUL from SimplifiFabric

55 pages of PDF!  I was seriously stressed about cutting this fabric.  I was worried that the project would get lost in my sewing room.  I was worried that it was too big.  The PUL scared me a little as it was so much finer (only 3mil) than what I had worked with in the past.   I finally sucked it up and started piecing the pdf, and then sorting out my layout for my work table.My worktable and rotary cutting mat were smaller than several of the pieces, so I rehearsed the layout and plan in my upstairs hallway.  I considered tracing the pattern onto the fabric, but decided to use weights and paper to cut piece by piece on the board, shifting the sleeve (the biggest piece and only one that was larger than my cutting mat in both length and width).

Now to the cape itself. - This is a gorgeous pattern:  The drafting is spot-on, the sleeves are clever and the hood has a lovely functional shape (it give you a great scope of view) - another sewist commented that it could be snugger to the face (but I have a big head - it was perfect for me)  I didn't test pulling it over the wig....

Notches matched, seamlines matched, and it went together beautifully.  I fumbled at the instructions for the opening - I will revisit the directions and let you know if it was chicken or egg, but be warned to take that step carefully.

Here's the whole caboodle:

The formal Mrs Claus pose

The full profile costume

check out the white eyebrows, and the candy striped base layer
(ugh, and the tight wig)

Here I am rounding up the vagrant elves!

A Cabled Cosy (Jacquard) Sweater - M6992

A few months ago I learned quite a lot doing a course called Dressing Your Truth (previous post) - it changed a few things - including what fabric I buy.  I have a little card with my best colour groupings  on it and though I rarely pull it out (it's pretty intuitive) it has tuned my eye to what it right for me when I am digging through the bins and bolts of clearance fabrics.

So I found a bizarre 1.2m piece in the Jacquards bin this Fall, and I couldn't let it pass.  It is the right colour - lots of activity/movement, and it's "cute".

The fabric is a jacquard knit, and also quilted.  I would almost say it leans towards a scuba - it's very neat.

I revisited McCall's M6992:

The double bust darts give this sweater great shaping, and the raglan sleeves are really sweet.  The little shoulder dart is a nice feature.

I like the hem without the band (View D) and I was really happy with the pattern matching at the front shoulder.

Given that I was limited to my remnant, and it had a flaw running the middle of the piece on the grainline - I think the back is well placed too.  

I am very happy with this make.

I am in love.

My 9mm Flat Felled Foot.

I am in love.  That is all.

Okay - a bit more:  The hood on Mrs Claus' cape is near perfect on the inside because this is the best bit of engineering I could have hoped for.  

Seriously: if you sew garments, buy a flat felled foot.

Stash Buster of Epic Proportions! Planning

I have been blessed with an OPPORTUNITY!

Years ago I worked for a great organization called Downtown Kingston! (exclamation mark included) working as the bookkeeper and secretary to several boards as a part of a great team of people.  When I left to manage my ex husband's business, and work as a controller at a Harley dealership, I kept going back to assist Downtown Kingston! with their events and festivals.

Over the years (10 years!?), one of my favorite recurring gigs has been the Nighttime Santa Parade.  I Guided Sparks, Brownies, Guides in the parade, I marshaled, I drove dignitaries, I waved to kids, I loved it.  I like people a lot, and this event is no ego for me, just a chance to see the faces of thousands of people having a great time.  It worked well as a single Mom, too: DS the Elder often came along for the ride, and got to meet some pretty awesome dignitaries!

So last year, I was assigned to chauffeur Mrs Claus to the event, and to drive one of the dignitary vehicles (the dignitaries usually walk, so I end up just driving an SUV at the start of the parade).  Mrs Claus had something go wrong, and couldn't make the parade - but my gig continued.

Then, in the Spring, I stopped in to drop off something to the office, and mentioned that I would be willing to stand-in for Mrs Claus if it ever happened again.  TA-DAH!  I got an email last month - they needed an understudy!  and this week? I am not just a bridesmaid this time!  Hello, Santa!

So up an'at'er!  I have a few weeks to make a costume (and of course I am not just whipping up a furry smock).

I have two donations to my stash that started the project:

1. my SIL gave me some home dec fabric last winter - a red upholstery with dahlias in chenille
2. my BFF's mom handed me some boxes when she was downsizing - and included was several meters of red satin backed crepe.

On the right above you can see the PUL I bought (a disappointing colour match, but such an investment, so I am using it).

So first, the Skirt.  I pulled out my A line block and added 1.5" to all seam allowances, and lengthened by 10", and lengthened the curved waistband by 6" on either end (my fudge factor) - I wasn't sure what I would need and Mainely Dad said it once and it stuck with me: cut your waistbands long - you can always shorten.
The upholstery was not an easy sew (and I am only half-way through hand stitching the canvas backed waistband), but I added the zippers, darts and shaping I think it needed:

That WAISTBAND!

So what's next?
Jacket:  M7254 View C in white "Reptile Fur" (what?   it was on the hallowe'en clearance table)
ValGal's version on Pattern Review was a lock for this pattern:

Cape: Sewaholic Cypres Cape in red PUL from SimplifiFabric

I will also need a muff for my hands and I hope to make this Die Nähanleitung zum Knöpfchen-Loop Autumn: (Katrin's is so beautiful)

So those are my essentials - All fur-trimmed, of course.

Catch-up - Where have I been AND Stash Busters #39-46 (of 48)

I have had VERY busy days since my last (published) post on September 4 - A massive project in my paying job has been tying me up - and in all my non-paying roles adjusting to the new back to school hours, 7 weeks of CrossFit training, and one heck of a lot of MRIs, Mammograms, Ultrasounds and other unpleasant appointments.

I have found myself holding back on sewing my intended projects - hoping 7 weeks of CrossFit would mean new measurements (nope, it didn't have the intended measurements impact - but I AM much fitter)  - and knowing that I was going to have some significant changes in my measurements over the coming months (I have been identified with Cowden's Syndrome and will be having a double mastectomy and other procedures soon).  - Isn't that the craziest parenthetical announcement ever?  I am trying to compartmentalize and that Pandora's () has slammed back shut again.

SO - what have I been sewing?  STUFF:  Non. Stop. Keeping. Sane, Sewing.

I had to do a little alteration on this raincoat to get it back from the Extended-to-4T to a 2T

Stash Buster #39:

I made another M7093, but changed the neckline to the one from View A of 7251.  I originally planned on making 7251, but  I was short the necessary yardage for pattern placement/matching.  My friend Nicole from Sartorial Sewing gifted me this wonderful woven and I have worn the top about 8 times (in 8 weeks).

Stash Busters #40 and 41 are a Hallowe'en costume, so pictures and post later.

Stash Buster #42:

This is the Shwin Designs Johnny B Good Hoodie - cute as hell and reviewed here.

 Stash Buster #43:

I followed this tutorial from The Crazy Tailor to make a doll carrier (here is a pin for you)

Stash Buster #44 was a wadder organza skirt.

 Stash Buster #45 wasn't - I made another Julia Cardigan:

and #46 - my entry to the PR Sweater Knit Sewing Contest:

A Nancy Zieman Santa Fe Top - here's my review

So - #47 is almost 1/2 way (a Plantain T with blousy arms).

Next,  I am onto the massive Mrs Claus project (Due November 21) - and that's a whole blog post on its own.

So - the most pleasant of all the appointments in the last month was the routine mammogram -
The Ontario Breast Screening Program is awesome.
The appointment was 25 mins start to finish - and I was only 5 minutes in the exam room.

Go. 

Stash Buster #38 (of 48) Blue Halloween dress for the 4T Chickadee S1926

Please help me decide on the buttons....

 

Who knew?  What was once to be Spiderman curtains for 4 year old DS (the elder) has become a 3rd birthday present for the 4T Chickadee.  We have a threenager in our midst who prefers to wear blue dresses (and my SIL loves themed dresses) so TaDah! a Blue Hallowe'en dress!

This is Simplicity 1926

This is in progress, and I need to decide on the buttons.  I will need to return to Fabricland for more blue buttons (shucks, if I HAVE to...) but I sort of like the look, but the orange buttons are more festive.... I am going to make a buttons hairband too... and the orange will look great in her hair.

What do you think?