Place Holder for KNITS MONTH POSTS
My final project will post next Monday - I have muslined it up, but I want to make it my first garment in the PR endless combinations contest ( http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/ContestRules.pl?ContestID=254 ) so I have to wait to cut until the 1st.
March 1, 2016
It's Knits Month!
According to the interweb we are all intimidated by knits - but TBH I have always been fearless (to occasional great success and frequent thrift store donation). This month I am going to bust some knits out of my stash - if you choose to join the theme, come a long with me!
To start - what patterns do you have in your stash? I started a board - https://www.pinterest.com/hkdawson/knit-busting-patterns/
According to the interweb we are all intimidated by knits - but TBH I have always been fearless (to occasional great success and frequent thrift store donation). This month I am going to bust some knits out of my stash - if you choose to join the theme, come a long with me!
To start - what patterns do you have in your stash? I started a board - https://www.pinterest.com/hkdawson/knit-busting-patterns/
March 3, 2016
Did the Pinterest Board give you any ideas? (https://www.pinterest.com/hkdawson/knit-busting-patterns/)
If you are new to knits, and not ready to invest, here are a few free patterns that I recommended:
Deer and Doe - Plantain Tee
http://shop.deer-and-doe.fr/…/20-plantain-t-shirt-pattern.h…
(a great starter T shirt Pattern, works well for curvy bodies - and many hack ideas are available on The Internet - try searching images for "plantain pattern deer and doe" Pinterest is a great source for ideas on this pattern too)
Peek A Boo Patterns - Janey Jump Around Dress
http://www.peekaboopatternshop.com/janey-jump-around-dress/
(great girl's dress: I have made 6 or 8 of these dresses - it's a perfect little ditty - I can whip one up in less than 2 hours from dryer to hanger)
Oliver & S - Sunny Day Shorts
http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/sunny-day-shorts/
(Boys' Shorts)
http://www.peekaboopatternshop.com/janey-jump-around-dress/
(great girl's dress: I have made 6 or 8 of these dresses - it's a perfect little ditty - I can whip one up in less than 2 hours from dryer to hanger)
Oliver & S - Sunny Day Shorts
http://oliverands.com/free-patterns/sunny-day-shorts/
(Boys' Shorts)
And if you just want to dig around - there are a number of excellent free patterns through Deby's site So Sew Easy
http://so-sew-easy.com/free-sewing-patterns/
http://so-sew-easy.com/free-sewing-patterns/
I know that several of our group have made the Lindy Petal Skirt from Itch to Stitch - I haven't, but I am confident in the validity of the reviews I have seen.
http://itch-to-stitch.com/new-pattern-release-lindy-petal-…/
There are quite a few other free patterns - I will go to the Pinterest Board and comment free on the ones I see there (or if you are pinning and know it is a free pattern, please mark it as free)
Next Up: Identifying the Knits in your stash - and sorting them out.
March 8, 2016There are so many types of knits fabrics in the big wide stash that choosing which is the proper knit to use in a project can be as difficult as sorting your stash.
So, we start with the basic knit identification tips:
- Where woven fabrics have a hash tag layout #, knits have a ₩ look. I'll attach a zoom in photo to show you. So, get out your magnifying glass.
- At the end of the photo set is a picture with instructions with measuring for %stretch - often on a commercial pattern package you will see a "fabric must stretch from here to here" chart. You should become accustomed to measuring stretch both cross grain and straight grain (parallel and perpendicular to the selvage).
- fabric content - hot tip - take a picture of the end of the bolt when you buy fabric - my stash predates digital photos, so that's mostly out for me, but there are lots of instructions on the Internet for testing for content (I don't have a great record for caring what content is in fabric).
-shrink test your fabric - knit patterns typically don't have a lot (or use negative) ease, so knowing the recovery, stretch, shrinkage of a fabric is important - wash a sample a few times (cut a square with specific dimensions - 10x10 cms is my usual - and then measure it when you are done drying it - then you can calculate the shrinkage) you can also check colour fastness and pilling at the same time.
- next we look at recovery and drape
March 11, 2016
http://itch-to-stitch.com/new-pattern-release-lindy-petal-…/
There are quite a few other free patterns - I will go to the Pinterest Board and comment free on the ones I see there (or if you are pinning and know it is a free pattern, please mark it as free)
Next Up: Identifying the Knits in your stash - and sorting them out.
So, we start with the basic knit identification tips:
- Where woven fabrics have a hash tag layout #, knits have a ₩ look. I'll attach a zoom in photo to show you. So, get out your magnifying glass.
- At the end of the photo set is a picture with instructions with measuring for %stretch - often on a commercial pattern package you will see a "fabric must stretch from here to here" chart. You should become accustomed to measuring stretch both cross grain and straight grain (parallel and perpendicular to the selvage).
- fabric content - hot tip - take a picture of the end of the bolt when you buy fabric - my stash predates digital photos, so that's mostly out for me, but there are lots of instructions on the Internet for testing for content (I don't have a great record for caring what content is in fabric).
-shrink test your fabric - knit patterns typically don't have a lot (or use negative) ease, so knowing the recovery, stretch, shrinkage of a fabric is important - wash a sample a few times (cut a square with specific dimensions - 10x10 cms is my usual - and then measure it when you are done drying it - then you can calculate the shrinkage) you can also check colour fastness and pilling at the same time.
- next we look at recovery and drape
March 11, 2016
After stretch %, Recovery and Drape are what makes a difference on selecting appropriate stash knits for a project.
Recovery - synonym: Elasticity. If you stretch it, does it return to the original shape and size? Imagine a range of BodySuit to Sleeveless Undershirt. A great test is the Poke Test - take a known size piece of fabric in both hands and drive your thumbs into the fabric like you are trying to get into a bag of chocolate. Scrunch it, twist it, poke it and then drop it like it's hot. How does it look? What size is it now? If it goes back to the original shape and size - it's likely Body Suit recovery level. If it looks like a topographic map - that's more like undershirt recovery level.
You have to use your imagination with judging the recovery of fabric for projects - where does the fabric lie on your body? How much ease is in the pattern, will the fabric slide over a joint (elbow, knee) or will you be stretching the fabric all day? Sleeveless undershirts need only a touch of recovery - when you bend forward it should recover. Body Suits will end up looking like a fat suit if you don't use fabric with recovery. Remember, Knit patterns might go so far as having NEGATIVE ease - this is why boyfriends don't like girlfriends wearing their favorite shirts - the girls can stretch out the chest and you end up giving your boyfriend a baggy chest.
Drape - How does the fabric fall? Is it gravity defying? Picture a dance skirt - poor drape makes a tutu, great drape makes a dance skirt - both skirts are gathered, but the drape effect changes the outcome. If you need the fabric to skim the body, then increased drape is important - this isn't unique to knits by any means, but it can be overlooked. Keep the tutu in mind - are you going to gather the knit? - what looks great as a sweatshirt (because it has more ease and hangs away from the body) might look silly as a skirt.
next up - needles, interfacing, and thread - Oh My!
March 15, 2016
I hope some of you have started attacking your knits plans - I whipped up a gorgeous StyleArc Emily and was led down the garden path by M7127 (you can look it up on pattern review - yeesh!) - I am trying to find my TNT (Tried and True) top pattern to blow out some of my pretty knits. - What have you completed so far?
So - Needles - they are what separate the tryers from the doers in sewing and can 'make' or 'break' a project (oh! so clever!)
There's a fantastic info summary on http://www.coatsindustrial.com/…/apparel-…/all-about-needles
We are focused on two needle types for our knits (size 80 needles will handle a typical knit, delicate fine knits need a smaller number, heavy dense knits need a bigger number):
Jersey/Ballpoint needles have a medium tip designed to slip between the knit fibers (will not break the fibres).
Stretch needles also have a medium ballpoint tip, but these have a special eye and scarf (thread slot) that are designed for especially stretchy fabrics and elastic (in these fabrics the threads will stretch rather than separate and you can end up with skipped stitches) Swimwear - and often slinky - needs this type of needle.
Thread! argue at will - I like a good thread - Coats and I have parted ways as the mercerized wrap seems to hate my tensioner discs in my machine.
You can use all cotton, mercerized, polyester - all of these work just fine. If your thread breaks while you stitch or when you try to stretch your seam (but you aren't skipping stitches), change your thread. You should be using a stretch stitch (a zigzag, double stitch, or lightning stitch).
Interfacing. It matters.
Yes, you will use interfacing in many knit projects. There is knit interfacing - use it if you pattern suggests it - you will produce a longer lasting, better lying, resilient garment. If you skip it, you will regret it.
Extra Interfacing and Stabilizer ideas? Patterns often skip the extras, but interfacing a zipper will improve your garment result, as will stabilizing your hemlines - we recently discussed Pellon and other knit stabilizer tape (in a comment string) I will attach a couple photos for your reference.
Here's the link to the conversation:
https://www.facebook.com/…/stashbusting20…/924643654298694/…
Finally, clear elastic (skinny like a ribbon) - it is great to add to horizontal seams that need to recover their shape - especially shoulder seams. Pull out some RTW and check to see if they have them in your garments - I have scavenged some out of garments where they used it for hanger strings. You stitch right through it and forget it.
Next up - pinning, cutting, basting. (more below the comments)
You have to use your imagination with judging the recovery of fabric for projects - where does the fabric lie on your body? How much ease is in the pattern, will the fabric slide over a joint (elbow, knee) or will you be stretching the fabric all day? Sleeveless undershirts need only a touch of recovery - when you bend forward it should recover. Body Suits will end up looking like a fat suit if you don't use fabric with recovery. Remember, Knit patterns might go so far as having NEGATIVE ease - this is why boyfriends don't like girlfriends wearing their favorite shirts - the girls can stretch out the chest and you end up giving your boyfriend a baggy chest.
Drape - How does the fabric fall? Is it gravity defying? Picture a dance skirt - poor drape makes a tutu, great drape makes a dance skirt - both skirts are gathered, but the drape effect changes the outcome. If you need the fabric to skim the body, then increased drape is important - this isn't unique to knits by any means, but it can be overlooked. Keep the tutu in mind - are you going to gather the knit? - what looks great as a sweatshirt (because it has more ease and hangs away from the body) might look silly as a skirt.
next up - needles, interfacing, and thread - Oh My!
March 15, 2016
I hope some of you have started attacking your knits plans - I whipped up a gorgeous StyleArc Emily and was led down the garden path by M7127 (you can look it up on pattern review - yeesh!) - I am trying to find my TNT (Tried and True) top pattern to blow out some of my pretty knits. - What have you completed so far?
So - Needles - they are what separate the tryers from the doers in sewing and can 'make' or 'break' a project (oh! so clever!)
There's a fantastic info summary on http://www.coatsindustrial.com/…/apparel-…/all-about-needles
We are focused on two needle types for our knits (size 80 needles will handle a typical knit, delicate fine knits need a smaller number, heavy dense knits need a bigger number):
Jersey/Ballpoint needles have a medium tip designed to slip between the knit fibers (will not break the fibres).
Stretch needles also have a medium ballpoint tip, but these have a special eye and scarf (thread slot) that are designed for especially stretchy fabrics and elastic (in these fabrics the threads will stretch rather than separate and you can end up with skipped stitches) Swimwear - and often slinky - needs this type of needle.
Thread! argue at will - I like a good thread - Coats and I have parted ways as the mercerized wrap seems to hate my tensioner discs in my machine.
You can use all cotton, mercerized, polyester - all of these work just fine. If your thread breaks while you stitch or when you try to stretch your seam (but you aren't skipping stitches), change your thread. You should be using a stretch stitch (a zigzag, double stitch, or lightning stitch).
Interfacing. It matters.
Yes, you will use interfacing in many knit projects. There is knit interfacing - use it if you pattern suggests it - you will produce a longer lasting, better lying, resilient garment. If you skip it, you will regret it.
Extra Interfacing and Stabilizer ideas? Patterns often skip the extras, but interfacing a zipper will improve your garment result, as will stabilizing your hemlines - we recently discussed Pellon and other knit stabilizer tape (in a comment string) I will attach a couple photos for your reference.
Here's the link to the conversation:
https://www.facebook.com/…/stashbusting20…/924643654298694/…
Finally, clear elastic (skinny like a ribbon) - it is great to add to horizontal seams that need to recover their shape - especially shoulder seams. Pull out some RTW and check to see if they have them in your garments - I have scavenged some out of garments where they used it for hanger strings. You stitch right through it and forget it.
Next up - pinning, cutting, basting. (more below the comments)
I love Art Gallery Fabrics collection. I found another fabric store which is Broadway Fabrics.
ReplyDelete