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Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Finished! Fit and Flare B6053 - Stash Buster #32 and 35 (of 48)

Finally!  B6053 is satisfyingly and tantalizingly done!

Cute little dress - the fit was good, I am not thrilled with the zipper finishing, but I was quite comfortable in the 29C (+100% humidity) wedding weather.

Instead of the prescribed hook and eye I had a sweet salvaged silver button with a crystal and I added an elastic loop.  I bought this zipper from a clearance bin at Fabricland last year, and it was too stiff for this fabric, too long, originally a separating zipper, and hence why I am not thrilled with the final look at the bottom - but it rocks this dress!

The faced hem is really nice - I used navy satin.
I used top-stitching thread - and I changed the order that I top-stitched: I sewed entire components together (the whole bodice) before I top-stitched - so I did all the vertical lines - and then attached the sleeves and midriff and top-stitched all of the horizontal seams - and then proceeded similarly with the skirt. - It was too much thread changing to do it when the pattern instructed (after every seam).

I wrote to McCall's and commented on the pattern - They replied and acknowledged the cutting confusion for the front piece (cut 2, not on the fold) - but I didn't feel like they were looking for constructive follow-up (really, this pattern is printed and probably mostly sold) so I will offer my advice to you (because you are either reading this because you love me and will skip the next bit - or because you are looking into making this dress.)
  • Trim your seam allowances on the neckline an sleeve.  
  • Stay-stitch and Clip your curved seams (in the bodice).
  • Plan your zipper before you cut your good fabric.  
  • Unstated in the instructions, the skirt part of the zipper has a 5/8" seam allowance ALL ALONG THE CUTAWAY - I didn't like the zipper design on this pattern.
  • The sleeves: practice this (if you make a muslin - it's worth the practice) it's tricky for an inexperienced sewist - I saved my top-stitching for the sleeve edge and underarm until the garment was complete.
  • Test to see if your machine/ fabric can handle a twin/triple needle for this project's top-stitching.  The twin worked well for me. 

So - I might make this again - I think it would be a great denim dress, and I may reconsider the skirt - there's a funny drape at the back of the butt - I am not sure if it's the fabric or the weird zipper or the pattern shape for the drafted zipper.

All in all - I love the bodice now that it is fitted - I may draft a straight Aline for a denim dress.

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