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Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Fit and Flare B6053 - or, My new suit of armor

Remember this?

Well - I am finally happy with the fit of the muslin:
here's where I started:
All Skirt Panels - Extend the cutting line to lengthen by 3"
Hem Panels - Increase each piece to accommodate the bigger circle
Used the D Cup Pieces
Here are some photos of the needed adjustments:
convenient-to-take darts at the raglan sleeve seam

significant spread at the midriff
Darts at the front neckline, some shaping for my bust line, which raises the arm scythe by 1.5 cm.

So - back to the tracing table!  I had to redraw the neckline on the should pieces, and slash and spread the front midriff - essentially making a curved band.  I also redrew the front skirt panel to meet the expanded midriff.

So stitched up and experimenting with the pattern's instructions for binding and testing the various topstitching possibilities - and this is what I ended up with:
I's pretty boobalicious, but the fit is good - maybe a tad overfitted.

The back is not overfitted. I made a small swayback adjustment, and my prominent rear usual issue should be fine:  I think the weight of the skirt will sort out the midriff.

Maybe I should have done a shoulder adjustment... I haven't needed one before, but I see the curve in my shoulder/neck.... I think I might need to go chat with my chiropractor.  It's carrying DS (the Younger) around I think.

The binding treatment on the neckline and upper sleeve is awkward - I am not sure that I will stick to the pattern directions when I finally get to the seafoam gabardine

So now I am on to the first wearable version - I am making it out of a lovely heathered grey crepe.  I am not sure of the fibre content but it feels like butter.
Here are some tests of the twin needle - I am going to do navy topstitching and use a pretty navy zipper with crystals on the teeth

Here's hoping!


  1. You have really nailed the fit. Nice work. I have this pattern and didn;t realize it would be so difficult to fit. I almost never make a muslin but perhaps I will have to for this one.

    1. I am curvy, and that can be a fitting challenge - so you might not need to do as much, but with all the top stitching you can't adjust the fit once it's built - except at the side seams. The skirt is easy - it's the bust that needs the work - I was able to make a muslin in just over an hour - it was totally worth the time.

  2. You have made me laugh again. Truly, we could be twins. In both mind and body. Thank you for all that you do and then tell us about it. Your fitting journey always inspires me to keep trying.