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Showing posts with label DYT. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DYT. Show all posts

Thursday, January 19, 2017

Lane Raglan - Rainbow LOVE

Hey June Lane Raglan

Ack.... I started to write a post about my new shirt and how lovely the source shop is.  It's not a shop in my own town, so I don't subscribe or follow on Facebook - but it was a lovely shop in a grand century home,  There was a lovely fibre arts room in the back of the shop - and a sweet little section for apparel sewing.  Back in September I traveled with a gf to Guelph Ontario so that she could complete her move back to our city.  I stopped into a sweet textile shop called .... Well, HECK!  I just went to grab the name of the store and found out that it CLOSED this weekend!  -  it was the Greenwood Quiltery.  Damn - it was a nice shop.
Well on that arm flopping announcement - I bought this dreamy knit fabric there.  It is an Art Gallery Fabrics Knit - and like all the AG that I have sewn with it is the dreamy 54" wide 4-way stretch with awesome depth of dye and no background showing through when it is stretched.  AG knits are my favorite of all the knits I have purchased.  I have sewn with several AG knits now, and you get incredible band for your buck.
This is: Looming Love Pastel from the Etno Collection
It's a perfect Type 1 (Dress Your Truth <--- affiliate link, there) fabric and all the cute and action makes me feel HAPPY!

I am striving to sew most of my own wardrobe, and a key piece in my grid is the long-sleeved T.  I work from home and I wear casual clothes most days.

The Lane Raglan from Hey June is my new favorite T.  I love the shape of the neckline and the scoop  front coupled with the raglan sleeve.  I graded between sizes and have cut the bust a little on the small size as I am still dropping weight (I have lost 55lbs now, and I am aiming on several more before the Spring).
The pattern is affordable to print at a copy shop, comes with a view with a hood and a bottom band, and there are nice Tutorials for the included Thumbhole Cuffs.  Last Fall I made a hoodie and thumbhole version that is in rotation in my wardrobe:

  I bought my Hey June pattern from IndieSew - the password restrictions on the Hey June site were too demanding.  That's not an affiliate link, it just lands you in the IndieSew land on a page that has my name on it.

I used my lightning stitch to hem and secure the neck band - and I used a lovely variegated mercerized cotton from Sulky

I added knit stabilizer tape to the neckline on the front, sleeves, and back, to the raglan seam on the sleeves, to the sleeve hem and shirttail.  I find this keeps the shape of the raglan, which I have had stretch out in wovens, and in knits I just love the crispness that the interfacing brings to the hems.  I usually lay the interfacing edge along the foldline on the hem (facing) so that I have a fold guide as well as support for my top-stitching.

I graded up to a larger size in the hips, and the length and sleeve length is great on me - I'm 5'4" / 162.5 cmI may to a slight swayback adjustment if I ever decide to use this pattern for something dressy - but as is, it stands as my newest TNT.

I am so thrilled with this make.  Here are a few more views:


Oh and my bragging: check out my stripe matching:

I think I might make some yellow jeans, next.








Thursday, November 17, 2016

Washi Dress - this muslin exceeded its intent!



What a cute, comfy dress for the Autumn events that pop-up!
Which can also be purchased at IndieSew
I finally decided to make this dress when I realized that I needed a couple easy dresses for the winter indoor concerts we have planned - something easy to wear with boots and tights, and to layer with a cardigan.  This iteration was supposed to be my muslin, but the fit was so bang-on (I didn't need to narrow the shoulder or adjust the bust!) it was a go ahead.  - I managed to squeeze all of this out of 2m of a wide chambray.

The wrinkles abound because I have worn this twice since it came off the dress form. - Suck it up, buttercup - I am here to share, not be judged.




I was new to shirring on my machine - and this was ridiculously easy.  
The pocket was AWESOME - I am on the dress pocket bandwagon.


I made my own partial lining for the bodice using the pattern pieces as the template, and ended the lining as free floating ABOVE the rows of shirring.

At the sleeves I burrito'ed the whole bit to encase the underarm in the lining.

The front was similarly lined and freefloating.  I *might* look at attaching it at the waistline next time....  I'll see.  So far it has been easy to wear.




So for those of you who question "why" I would Hong Kong this fabric - check out the fraying from it's first wash - this is under the facing.

The Guts (Note my judicious  use of leftover bias tape - and the cute bursts of colour :)


The armscye looks like this when you burrito it instead of binding it - I did the front and the back in separate stitching and folding opeations, and understitched the lining to the notches front and back (well into the part covered by the cap).


So,  so super cute!  I made a little matchy Lisbon cardigan/topper as well... and felt really youthful and comfortable in this outfit

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

A Cabled Cosy (Jacquard) Sweater - M6992

A few months ago I learned quite a lot doing a course called Dressing Your Truth (previous post) - it changed a few things - including what fabric I buy.  I have a little card with my best colour groupings  on it and though I rarely pull it out (it's pretty intuitive) it has tuned my eye to what it right for me when I am digging through the bins and bolts of clearance fabrics.

So I found a bizarre 1.2m piece in the Jacquards bin this Fall, and I couldn't let it pass.  It is the right colour - lots of activity/movement, and it's "cute".
The fabric is a jacquard knit, and also quilted.  I would almost say it leans towards a scuba - it's very neat.



I revisited McCall's M6992:
The double bust darts give this sweater great shaping, and the raglan sleeves are really sweet.  The little shoulder dart is a nice feature.
I like the hem without the band (View D) and I was really happy with the pattern matching at the front shoulder.
Given that I was limited to my remnant, and it had a flaw running the middle of the piece on the grainline - I think the back is well placed too.  


I am very happy with this make.



Thursday, August 27, 2015

Not Just Another Wardrobe Plan Post - Learning to Dress My Truth

Lately there is a blogosphere undercurrent of Kondo-adhering, organized people planning a new Fall Capsule Wardrobe.  Sometimes I wish I was one of those people, but I am more of an
I-want-to-do-it-all-I-love-everything 
kind of person.  In fact, striving for a minimalist life is soul crushing for me!
Really though I have realized that I need to institute some guidelines for my enthusiasm.  I need to approach my apparel sewing differently than I have been.
Why do I need a guiding path? Because of my personality - everything is an option for me.  Why is this a problem? Try watching Yes Man - everything is fun a and games until you stop and realize that you have lost YOU in the Yes.  I need some guidelines to keep my projects in check or my enthusiasm will become my frenemy.  Trust me - this is a real issue in all aspects of my life - I have been married to the wrong guy, jumped into a 2nd marriage that couldn't work geographically, and stayed way too long in a relationship that was just t.o.x.i.c. All because I am a positive person who enthusiastically says yes!  spoiler alert: I am happily in the healthiest relationship of my life, now, finally, at 43.
Just a quick FYI - There are no affiliate links in this blog post.  I don't have a moral standing on this issue - I typically have 100 hits on a blog post - that's a lot of people reading my diary, but metrics don't justify the work of cultivating affiliate relationships.

In the May issue of Seamwork there was an article ""Design a Personal Color Palette" that recommended making a framework for your wardrobe.  This chart from Elizabeth Farr was featured in the Seamwork Article:

SYMPTOM

SOLUTION

Your clothes don’t always make you feel vibrant.When wearing your own colors, you naturally will feel better. It’s hard not to feel blah in a deep, dark sweater when candied pastels light up your face.
You feel disconnected and trapped by fashion trends.With a strong sense of your own colors, you won’t have to wait for fashion seasons to bring your favorite colors to you.
Your clothes don’t seem to go well together.You will increase the versatility of your wardrobe. When all your creations are in your color range, you can combine your clothes in ways that you never could before. Orphan garments will be a thing of the past.
You find yourself buying fabric because it’s "close enough" to what you really want.A personal palette will boost your creativity. Working within the limits of a color palette, you will look for novel solutions when you cannot find the right color in a given fabric. For example, when you can’t find the right shade of denim, you might reach for bleach, dye, or choose a vivid printed twill.
Colour wasn't everything I needed, though - I need a sewing buddy to help me know if something looks "right" on me too - but sewing buddies are scarcer than hen's teeth in my environment.  But, I have online friends - and we all know that the online community is utterly supportive; there's no room for trolling in our community - and when an outsider does troll, things like #cakewithcashmerette happen. So when I asked, I was not getting a critique - just support (I thank you all for your support, it's a wonderful world to live in, except - I need to be told the bitter truth sometimes!)

I read  Stacy London 's book The Truth about Style in hopes that would help, and it did, but it was more to help me garner enthusiasm for my project - not what style would work for me specifically.  The book is awesome, it really helps you understand where you can go wrong and how to encourage your desire to be stylish.  I realized while reading the book that each woman's situation spoke to me in a way  - perhaps the issues I am facing are cultural?  In the end the book reminded me of the Girl Guide Law: especially from the Promise, "I Promise to be True to Myself".  (It's funny how the Law always brings me back to my home ground.)

  What do I desire?  Here's a little brainstorming of keywords (and then I went back and added a "what does this mean? - What do I want?"):

  • Ease - I want my look to seem effortless, outfits are fine, but I want people to think I took care, without freaking out about what to wear)
  • Commanding - I want people to notice me and pay attention
  • Approachable - I want people to want to talk to me
  • Pretty - I want to look attractive in a romantic lacy way
  • Quality - Made - I want the quality of my clothes speak to my skills as a sewist
  • Synchronous - I want my outfits to be coordinated not just as an ensemble, but to work with my situation and my personality
  • Youthful - I want my clothes to be fun and full of energy, and let me be free to do youthful things while I am wearing them
  • Up-Market - I want my clothes to fit like they are tailored, and have expensive-looking features
  • Chic - I want to look like I pay attention to fashion
  • Forward - I want to look like I am edgy (like I pay attention to fashion)


Am I sure I have a problem?  Sure - I don't feel like many of my clothes fulfill my brainstormed list above.

That said - I HAVE made some great decisions with my clothes that HAVE made me feel great when I wear them, but until I looked at my brainstorming list above I hadn't realized why.
 



So - I had been adrift and making fashion without a filter - just getting lucky from time to time.

I decided I needed help, and thought I would search out a system that would give me cheat sheets.  I began to pin, and pin, and search and pin - but I wasn't really getting anywhere definite, I just had suspicions.  Finally I broke down and looked at pay-for services - and there are a few out there - I looked at several and then started researching Carol Tuttle's books and looking at anything I could find on YouTube.  Everything was quite accessible.

You might have seen the Dress Your Truth pop-ups in your ad bars at one point.
Dressing Your Truth Program (this is a Link to a free profiling course).

The language and spirit can be very touchy feely and new age from time to time, but it is an interesting perspective on personal style - AND at the end of the course I had a guide for where I should be heading with my sewing choices: Design Lines, Texture, Fabrication, Pattern, and Colour.  I fit nicely into Type 1 - my keywords are Animated, Youthful and Fresh.

I feel like the program really resonated with me, and I have found a significant difference when I look at sewing projects - the Fall Releases from the Big 4 have been a different experience for me, my Pinning has changed, and when I went to a fabric store this week I was far more discerning than I have been in the past.

Here's an example of a recent design decision that I caught on camera - I had the Texture, Fabrication, Pattern, and Colour right, The colour is great, and the random polka-dots and movement in the contrast  sleeves are perfect for my Type 1 energy.  BUT the Design Lines were wrong.
This Neckline cuts me off.  It is too high, and too abrupt.  the texture of the sleeves is good, but overwhelmed by the expanse of my chest.  

Relaxing the curve on the neckline was an excellent choice, and the addition of the contrast fabric to the centre-front opens up the face and brightens up the whole experience.


I am amazed at the difference - In the past I would have gone with the pattern and ended up with a frumpy sweatshirt, but I KNEW what I needed to do: add a point of a star, or the base of a heart to the neckline to honour my Type 1 look.  (What???! - I learned it in the DYTruth course!)

And finally - I also understood that my neckband choice mattered - using the coral would cut off the accent and negate the effect - so I cut out the contrast fabric as the neck band:

I am so pleased with the final effect.  It's just a raglan sweater - but it's not frumpy, it suits me!

So next - to plan a Fall Wardobe  LOL - actually, next I need to do a little Kondo-ing and get rid of the clothes that are bringing me down - only now I will have Guidelines and now I will understand why the clothes just don't work for me.