Tilton Shrug 9190 #2

Okay - I will admit - I LOVE to wear cute clothes.  How can you not feel happy when your fabric is called Happy Town?  

(It is from Birch Fabrics, and all organic - here's the link)

I wanted to try the V9190 2nd view  (view 1 post is here)  - I HAD been thinking about a Morris Blazer, and this had similar lapels - but look at this feminine back:

I ended up with this cute fabric in a Simplifi remnants box - and there was a smidge of the pink - just enough for the yoke, cuffs and I squeezed the drawstrings out.

It coordinates perfectly with the roofs on some of the houses.

So - I know, it's way beyond dear.... but I feel happy in it.

The Tilton pattern is dreamy and fits well - I'll make it again in something more subdued - but I will probably wear this version to death.  The pattern will apparently work well with a combination of wovens (where I have used the Pink).  I may try that, too.

I want to mention, too, that I took Marcy and Katherine Tilton - The Ultimate T-Shirt: Fitting & Construction and it has made a HUGE difference in the quality of the tops I am making.  I also added using knit stay tape to my garments and my hems and top stitching are MUCH nicer now. (that's an affiliate link above - go mark the class to your wishlist and pick it up next time Craftsy has a sale).

This top has a set in sleeve - I have found that the method works wonderfully - I pin it a bunch and stitch it slow and I haven't had an issue at all.



so - back to my day of practiced oblivion of current events!

Tilton Shrug V9190

WOOHOO!  I love it when a risk on a garment totally works!

V9190
My Pin works but I can`t call the pattern up with a hyperlink.

I swear I measured and measured and measured the back shoulder on this and I was really concerned about the apparent negative ease, (the fit is described on another review as "snug"(Stitchmaker) and Marec indicated "Pattern runs small and it is fitted through the shoulders." 
Despite my trepidation I decided to plunge ahead with a size 16. (I have a 40" bust and the pattern piece shows 43.5" at the bust) - and here's a shot of the back:  not snug at all.

I am getting ready to go on a trip to visit new clients and my flight will limit me to a carry on for the 5 days.  Since I renovated my health and nutrition last Fall I have lost 50lbs and my last trip's capsule wardrobe won't quite work for this trip.  I was out on the weekend and we popped in to see if I could find a cardigan/jacket that would suit my current wardrobe, but the trend right now is just too voluminous for my ego - I want my waistline to show, but the shoulders to fit:  SO THIS IS WHY I SEW!

I debated tracing a new size in my long suffering Julia Cardigan, or a new size of the  Lisbon Cardigan - and I am still going to hit these later this season, but I wanted just a little more fit.  This Tilton pattern has been romancing my to sew list for a while.

The collar might be a little dear, but I think it backs it off the severe bolero look.  As far as DYT (I`m a Type 1) this might be a little more type 2 -( Dress Your Truth <--- affiliate link, there).

As drafted, I think everything works for my 5`4`` frame in a size 16 - the sleeves are a good long length on me:

I have reviewed the pattern on Patternreview.com - it`s pretty great instructions and drafting wise.

Lane Raglan - Rainbow LOVE

Hey June Lane Raglan

Ack.... I started to write a post about my new shirt and how lovely the source shop is.  It's not a shop in my own town, so I don't subscribe or follow on Facebook - but it was a lovely shop in a grand century home,  There was a lovely fibre arts room in the back of the shop - and a sweet little section for apparel sewing.  Back in September I traveled with a gf to Guelph Ontario so that she could complete her move back to our city.  I stopped into a sweet textile shop called .... Well, HECK!  I just went to grab the name of the store and found out that it CLOSED this weekend!  -  it was the Greenwood Quiltery.  Damn - it was a nice shop.

Well on that arm flopping announcement - I bought this dreamy knit fabric there.  It is an Art Gallery Fabrics Knit - and like all the AG that I have sewn with it is the dreamy 54" wide 4-way stretch with awesome depth of dye and no background showing through when it is stretched.  AG knits are my favorite of all the knits I have purchased.  I have sewn with several AG knits now, and you get incredible band for your buck.

This is: Looming Love Pastel from the Etno Collection
It's a perfect Type 1 (Dress Your Truth <--- affiliate link, there) fabric and all the cute and action makes me feel HAPPY!

I am striving to sew most of my own wardrobe, and a key piece in my grid is the long-sleeved T.  I work from home and I wear casual clothes most days.

The Lane Raglan from Hey June is my new favorite T.  I love the shape of the neckline and the scoop  front coupled with the raglan sleeve.  I graded between sizes and have cut the bust a little on the small size as I am still dropping weight (I have lost 55lbs now, and I am aiming on several more before the Spring).
The pattern is affordable to print at a copy shop, comes with a view with a hood and a bottom band, and there are nice Tutorials for the included Thumbhole Cuffs.  Last Fall I made a hoodie and thumbhole version that is in rotation in my wardrobe:

  I bought my Hey June pattern from IndieSew - the password restrictions on the Hey June site were too demanding.  That's not an affiliate link, it just lands you in the IndieSew land on a page that has my name on it.

   

I used my lightning stitch to hem and secure the neck band - and I used a lovely variegated mercerized cotton from Sulky

I added knit stabilizer tape to the neckline on the front, sleeves, and back, to the raglan seam on the sleeves, to the sleeve hem and shirttail.  I find this keeps the shape of the raglan, which I have had stretch out in wovens, and in knits I just love the crispness that the interfacing brings to the hems.  I usually lay the interfacing edge along the foldline on the hem (facing) so that I have a fold guide as well as support for my top-stitching.

I graded up to a larger size in the hips, and the length and sleeve length is great on me - I'm 5'4" / 162.5 cmI may to a slight swayback adjustment if I ever decide to use this pattern for something dressy - but as is, it stands as my newest TNT.

I am so thrilled with this make.  Here are a few more views:

Oh and my bragging: check out my stripe matching:

I think I might make some yellow jeans, next.

After all those secret projects.... what's coming up?

That Washi is a great little pattern.  I wore my new linen one to a trip to a music and museum afternoon and was so comfortable!  Winter and stockings is not a win-win, but maybe I'll tackle some rosehip tights next winter...

 

Redoing:

OMG - I made a stocking for my son for Christmas, and I ROYALLY messed up the cuff that folds over the top.  I need to redo this.

Making:

I am working on some SILK pjs with cute rickrack edging.  They are adorable. and SILK!

Choosing:

My sewing group is working on a 8 garment Seasonal Sew Wardrobe: I have been toying with my plans:

The fun bit is that I have also been choosing my fabrics from my stash.....  I am debating tackling the Tilton apron dress ( V9108) or the Colette Dhalia next.

Concentrating:

My health.  So - I am down 50lbs and it's time for me to start adding yoga and gymn work.  I HAVE to get ready for my hysterical surgery.  (Intended : go look up the connection between hysterectomy and hysterical)

I don't think sewing can be harnessed for motivating me to work out - they are (timewise) counter productive - EXCEPT - it is sure nice to NOT have to grade up the patterns - I can just blend the size lines and succeed now  <GRIN!>

Appreciating:

This is NOT Gratitude - I have so much of that.  So I will pick one thing - I saw Spencer Evans (well see is a stretch, I was tucked in a corner because we arrived too close to the start of the concert - so DH and I listened) at a local gallery yesterday #childcare

Imagine what it would be like to be able to express what's in your heart the way that a musician can?  That's artistry.

so... decisions decisions - but I have to finish the pjs first.

Washi Dress - this muslin exceeded its intent!

What a cute, comfy dress for the Autumn events that pop-up!

The Made By Rae Washi

Which can also be purchased at IndieSew

I finally decided to make this dress when I realized that I needed a couple easy dresses for the winter indoor concerts we have planned - something easy to wear with boots and tights, and to layer with a cardigan.  This iteration was supposed to be my muslin, but the fit was so bang-on (I didn't need to narrow the shoulder or adjust the bust!) it was a go ahead.  - I managed to squeeze all of this out of 2m of a wide chambray.

The wrinkles abound because I have worn this twice since it came off the dress form. - Suck it up, buttercup - I am here to share, not be judged.

I was new to shirring on my machine - and this was ridiculously easy.  

The pocket was AWESOME - I am on the dress pocket bandwagon.

I made my own partial lining for the bodice using the pattern pieces as the template, and ended the lining as free floating ABOVE the rows of shirring.

At the sleeves I burrito'ed the whole bit to encase the underarm in the lining.

The front was similarly lined and freefloating.  I *might* look at attaching it at the waistline next time....  I'll see.  So far it has been easy to wear.

So for those of you who question "why" I would Hong Kong this fabric - check out the fraying from it's first wash - this is under the facing.

The Guts (Note my judicious  use of leftover bias tape - and the cute bursts of colour :)

The armscye looks like this when you burrito it instead of binding it - I did the front and the back in separate stitching and folding opeations, and understitched the lining to the notches front and back (well into the part covered by the cap).

So,  so super cute!  I made a little matchy Lisbon cardigan/topper as well... and felt really youthful and comfortable in this outfit

B6244 Lisette for Butterick Cascade Front Coat

B6244 Lisette for Butterick

 Last Wednesday (!!!!) DH and I took a day off together and were out running errands - kids both in their daytime gigs meant we were f.r.e.e.   We were at the west end of town, so very close to the local Fabricland and my gallant knight encouraged me to swing by - and I dragged him in for his opinion on a "sante fe" knit so I could make an on-style cardigan.   When we walked in we found boiled wool, blanket fabric and coating on *sale* !   Stashed away in my pile of patterns I wanted to try was Butterick 6244 - so a project was born when he helped me pick out a fabric with a decent wrong side.

The pattern B6244 from Lisette is straight forward - just a single worrisome pivot at each neck/shoulder joint.  I shortened the sleeves to fit and the length by 3 inches.  I graded up much less than I used to have to (my hips are down over two inches since September) and was within the pattern measurements finally!  (I also referred to the sewalong)

I changed the hemming method to face the hem (at the same 5/8") with a ribbing I had in my stash. Using a little stretch on the ribbing only (maybe 10%?)  - I stitched it at 5/8 then flipped it to the hem side and zig-zagged the edge.  On the intersecting hems, I started a new strip with the end simply folded over and continue on my merry way.  The hem is to the outside on the neckline and front, and to the inside on the bottom edge (per the pattern).

My style sense was born in the 80's and this fabric felt so Ralph Lauren, so I added shoulder pads without a second thought.  I bound the arm hole with a double fold bias tape and used a twill tape along the shoulder and neckline seam.  

B6244 Lisette for Butterick

B6244 Lisette for Butterick

In the end, when I look in the mirror I am not 100% that this is the front opening for me - but it sure is easy to wear and will definitely be my go-to until the snow flies (and by which time I hope to fit nicely into my parka!)

Cake: Endeavours - Cullottes for Sew Long Summer Blog Tour.

This morning it was 9 degrees (48F) and that was *just* a little too chilly for shorts and a tee shirt (I am Canadian).  Luckily I have been prepping for the Sew Long Summer - transitioning into Autumn - Blog Tour. 

Last Spring I found an Indie Pattern Shelf at Fabrications in Ottawa  and was BEYOND THRILLED to find a copy of the Cake Endeavour Trouser.  I quickly made up a pair of very wearable shorts and made plans to use the pattern as a wardrobe starting point - but then I decided to make a dress, and tested a few patterns and got away from my "wardrobe" plans.

So here we are - AUTUMN! and I don't need shorts.

When Melissa touched base and suggested I join the Sew Long Summer Blog tour I immediately thought of the Cake pattern.

SewManju does a lovely job styling her cullottes and I thought the look might work for me, and I had some black linen in my queue, so I decided  to give it a go.

First - let's talk about the pattern:  

FORMAT:  I am normally a pdf gal when it comes to indie patterns - we just don't have access to the gorgeous printed patterns in my neck of the woods.  I was reluctant to buy the pdf of this pattern because I had heard it was complex (but it is not, really) with many pattern pieces for different size combinations (true).

The packaging is lovely - the colour coding is valuable (don't stick to B&W if you are printing the pdf), and the printed sheet is not enormous - I imagine it will be manageable as a pdf.

SIZE RUN: Until recently - there weren't many offerings of plus size patterns in printed versions.  Cake has a nice size range (Hip measurements included: 30"-55" (76-150))  - the pattern concept is especially wonderful for a curvy body because there are grading lines for various body types and measurements.  If you are an experienced size blender it is an awesome and easy experience to grade from a 54" hip to a small waist using the pattern pieces.

INSTRUCTIONS: if you have marked your notches and know how to follow them the instructions are excellent.  StephC comes very close to beginner level instructions, but it's definitely and advanced beginner pattern.  There are a few parts to the instruction puzzle that are on the pattern pages them selves, so don't pack the pattern away after tracing until you have checked for additional info on the sheets.  There are fewer pictures than typical (more than StyleArc... but no four colour photos, for sure)

TECHNIQUE:  I particularly liked the pocket design and construction process on this pattern.

FEATURES:  The Darling Pant (there is also a Sailor Pant pattern in this offering) features an invisible zipper (easily installed above the pocket seams) and generous, slanted hip pockets.  The real perk of this pattern, is the front leg (princess?) seam on the pant and the back yoke, which allow for tweaking in the fit.  The leg is very wide, and I am told that somewher out there there are instructions for narrowing the leg pattern, but other than the mention on Flikr I have not been able to uncover an instruction set.  (Cake's  Designer, StephC is on a LOA recently and is sometimes present on these interwebs, but you are better to turn to your Facebook groups for any advice ). 

ALTERATIONS: I added 13" to the shorts length to get this cullotte.  I also did a full tumy adjustment by temporarily piceing together the front panel pieces and following Michelle's tutorial on the Curvy Sewing Collective.  I moved some of the front leg inseam to the back leg (narrowing the front crotch curve and lengthening the back crotch curve to eliminate some bunching I found when walking in my shorts - it seems to have done the trick.  Next time I will use my self-drafted shaped wastband - the pattern will accept a different wasitband easily.

And the pants themselves?

FABRIC - Delicious black linen with a viscose blend - not itchy, good body, washes well and has held it's colour very well.   I am not new to linen and canvas for multi-season wear.... it's great for when the mornings are too cool for cotton skirts, and transitions perfectly to hot afternoons.  It's dreamy and soft and warm and cool.

For the pockets, I used a knit lining I had on hand (hence, the olive) and the pocket technique that uses adhesive seam tape is really nice.

Pocket on the inside of the garment

The inside of the pocket and invisible zipper (what? you can't see it?)

STYLING - Cullottes are quite wearable!  I love how SewManju added a boxy T or a fited jacket - I think keeping proportions in thirds work well with the short length: 1/3 top and 2/3 pants.   I am wearing my nude M7093 in these pictures - tucked in - and untucked looked nice as well.  I have a nice cropped leather jacket that looks great with these, and a pretty frilled top that works well too.  I am happiest with the way they look with a pair of MaryJanes, but if these contine to be wearable, I might try pairing with my black boots to extend their season a little.

Since this is part of a Blog Tour there are some nice perks:

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Fun discounts and coupon codes from our sponsors:

Zierstoff Patterns 20% off patterns Code: zierstoffpatterns20 Ends 9/17/16 

  Blue Dot Patterns 25% off patterns Code: SewLongSummer Ends 9/17/16 

  On the Cutting Floor 50% off patterns Code: SEWLONG Ends 9/17/16

The rest of the Tuesday posts are here:

mahlicadesigns
Musings of a Seamstress
Sprouting Jube Jube
 Sewing A La Carte
 Anne-Mari Sews

Here are some of the other posts:

Sewing By Ti, Cindy Parrett, Sewing Vortex, Couturious, Nina Makes

I will come back and update this post with the links as they are published